Buying a Used Van for Conversion: Ultimate Guide (2026)
- Shane Monks O'Byrne
- 3 days ago
- 22 min read
Buying a used van to convert into a camper is one of the most exciting — and risky — steps in the process. I know this firsthand. Years ago, I picked up a 2012 Ford Transit L3H3 for €7,000. It had 150,000 km on the clock and looked solid at first glance. But over the next few years, I've spent somewhere in the region of €15,000 on repairs, rust treatment, and unexpected servicing. It taught me the hard way that a cheap van isn’t always a bargain — especially when rust sets in and reliability becomes a moving target.
Since then, I’ve shifted to choosing newer, cleaner vans that hold up better and avoid the endless headaches. This guide is built from that experience. It’s everything I wish I’d known before buying my first van — a complete, data-backed, no-fluff walkthrough of how to choose, inspect, and buy a used van that won’t come back to bite you.
In this article, we’ll cover everything from choosing the right van model and checking for problems, to reading service records, using tools like CarVertical, understanding UK legalities, and negotiating the price. Whether you're buying privately or through a dealer, this guide will help you avoid costly mistakes and buy with confidence.
Index
Shane, the founder of The Van Conversion, is a campervan professional and NCC-certified electrical installer. Since 2020, he’s lived on the road full-time, completing several van builds along the way. He’s the author of Roaming Home and the creator of The Van Conversion Course, which have helped thousands build their own vans. Shane also writes The Van Conversion Newsletter, where he shares hands-on tips and practical insights. He’s passionate about empowering others to make their vanlife dreams reality.
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Setting Your Budget and Expectations
Cost of base vehicle vs. Cost of Conversion
Before you start van shopping, get your budget and expectations in line. Converting a van costs money – both the used van’s price and the build itself. A common rule is the “70/30 rule”: allocate about 70% of your total project funds to buying the van, and 30% to the conversion. Some go 60/40 if you plan a more elaborate build. For example, a £20k total budget might mean ~£14k on the van and £6k on materials, whereas a build with fancy electrics (but the same budget) might allow 60% on the van (£12k) and 40% (£8k) on the build.
In our Roaming Home 2023 Study we found the median cost of a base van for conversion was about €9,000 (≈£7,800). Most people spent between €4k and €10k on the conversion itself (average ~€8.5k), bringing the average total project to ~€17.5k (≈£15k). Of course, you can do it for less – the author of that study bought a van for €7k and spent another €7k converting it. The key is to know your budget and stick to it, with a cushion for surprises.
Cost of van conversion; Data source: Roaming Home 2023 Study
Depreciation and sweet spots
In our 2023 Roaming Home study we found that 94% of people doing a van conversion buy a used van - only 6% buy new.
New vans lose value fastest in the first 1-3 years. A work van’s price drops roughly €2,000 per year of age after the first couple of years. There’s evidence the best value in used vans is around 3 years old or roughly 30,000 km (~18k miles) – beyond that point, the cost tends to drop more dramatically. If you can afford a 2-4 year old van, you might hit a sweet spot of relatively low mileage but much cheaper than new. On the other hand, older high-mileage vans are cheaper upfront but may need more repairs.
Odometer & age vs. cost; Data source: Roaming Home 2023 Study
Don’t cheap out on the van itself
It’s tempting to buy the oldest or highest-mileage van to save money for the build, but that can backfire. As I mentioned, I spent €7k on a 2012 Ford Transit with lots of wear (and evident rust starting to form) and it ended up costing me around €15k in repairs since 2018. In comparison, a friend of mine spent ~€11k on a slightly newer van around the same time and has had virtually no repair costs. I encourage you to think long-term. Invest in the best condition van you can reasonably afford – it will likely save you money and headaches long-term.
Other costs to plan for
Don’t forget tax, insurance, and registration costs when budgeting. In the UK, road tax for most vans is a flat rate (about £345 per year in 2025 for a 12-month licence), though some cleaner Euro4/5 vans from mid-2000s pay ~£140.
Insurance for a panel van can be higher than for a car, and if you’ll re-register as a campervan later, you might need a specialized policy (more on that later). You can compare van insurance prices across all providers using a service like Compare the Market.
Also budget for an immediate maintenance catch-up (ie. a full service) once you buy the van.
Choosing the Right Used Van for Your Needs
Not all vans are created equal, and the “best” van depends on your plans. What will you use the van for, and how do you plan to live in it? Start by defining your requirements:
Size (Wheelbase & Roof Height)
If you plan to live in the van or travel for extended periods, a larger panel van (like a long-wheelbase high-roof) provides space to stand up and fit a bed, storage, and amenities. If it’s for weekend trips or stealthy city parking, a smaller van might suffice.
European panel vans are categorized by length and height: e.g., L1H1 = short wheelbase/low roof, L3H3 = long wheelbase/high roof.
Being able to stand up inside is a game-changer for comfort. On the other hand, a huge van can be harder to maneuver and may not fit under height barriers or in all parking spots – consider where you’ll drive it.
Layout Needs
Think about what you must have in the camper layout. For example, a fixed bed takes a lot of space; a toilet or shower requires both space and a water system; carrying sports gear (bikes, surfboards) might need length. If you have extensive needs, lean toward a bigger van (Sprinter, Ducato, etc.). If you just need a bed and small kitchen for short getaways, a smaller VW Transporter used or Ford Transit Custom could do.
Mechanical and Reliability Considerations
Not all vans are equal when it comes to reliability, rust, or conversion potential...
In the UK, the Ford Transit Custom leads the pack with an impressive MOT pass rate of 84% (based on analysis of more than 33 million MOT results from 2005 carried out by temporary van insurance providers Tempcover), making it a solid bet for dependability and easy maintenance. Full-size Ford Transits are also widely available, relatively affordable, and supported by a huge parts network — one reason Ford was recently ranked the most reliable van brand in the UK by Fleet News, based on feedback from major fleet operators. The affordability and ease of finding parts for repair was the reason I bought a used Ford Transit for my last build. As it transpired the MK7 (2012) was very rust prone, this was greatly improved with the release of the MK8 (2014).
In our Roaming Home 2023 study we found the Ford Transit to be the most popular van by the Mercedes Sprinter.
Mercedes Sprinters have a well-earned reputation for longevity, often passing the 300,000 km mark if maintained properly. But they come at a price — both in upfront cost and repairs. They’re prone to rust (even on newer models), and common issues include diesel injector seal leaks (“black death”) and emissions system problems. Their MOT pass rate sits around 75%, respectable but not top-tier. Sprinters consistently rank at the top of reliability surveys like FN50. They also hold value better than other brands.
For space and value, the Fiat Ducato, Peugeot Boxer, and Citroën Relay are standout options. They share the same platform and offer one of the widest interior layouts (~1.87m) — perfect for sideways beds. The Ducato posts a strong 77.6% MOT pass rate, and parts are generally cheaper than Sprinter or VW equivalents. Early 2000s models had gearbox quirks, but later versions are far improved. The cheaper price and wide interior were the reasons I chose a new Citroën Relay for my newest van conversion.
The VW Transporter is ideal if you want something smaller and more car-like to drive. They're reliable and easy to live with, but expect to pay a premium — demand keeps used prices high.
If you want a deeper head-to-head breakdown of all the most popular vans for conversion — including dimensions, drivetrains, quirks, and pros and cons — I’ve compared them all in detail in this guide.
Consider renting or borrowing first:
If you’re new to vanlife, renting a campervan for a weekend can help you figure out what size and features you really need. It’s a small expense that might save you buying the wrong van.
Where to Find Used Vans (and What to Watch Out For)
There are several solid ways to find used vans in the UK, each with pros and cons. The key is casting a wide net — but staying sharp to avoid junk.
Online Marketplaces
Sites like AutoTrader, Facebook Marketplace, eBay Motors, Gumtree, and Exchange & Mart have the biggest range.
Auto Trader is best for filtering and dealer/private options.
Facebook and Gumtree can be cheaper but riskier — scams are common.
Always look for clear photos, full descriptions, and sellers who’ll share the reg/VIN for checks (we'll get to background checks later).
Avoid vague listings or sellers pushing for deposits before viewing.
Check how long a van’s been listed — if it hasn’t sold, there’s probably a reason.
Dealerships and Van Traders
Reputable dealers often prep the vans (new MOT, basic servicing) and may offer 3–6 month warranties.
Expect to pay more — they build profit in.
The trade-off is peace of mind and legal protection if the vehicle turns out dodgy.
Look for van dealers with strong reviews.
High-risk, high-reward. You might land a bargain, but you often can’t test drive or return it. I met someone a few years ago who worked for a vehicle auction house and he told me that the very best used vans you can get in the UK are county council vans up for auction as they are rigorously maintained and aren't put under a lot of stress.
Vehicles are sold “as seen” — no warranty.
Many are ex-lease or fleet with solid service history, but high mileage.
Factor in auction fees and expect some post-purchase work.
Not ideal for beginners unless you have mechanical backup.
Ex-Fleet Sales
Companies sometimes sell directly (e.g. BT vans or delivery fleets).
Typically high mileage but full service records and one owner (they are serviced on strict schedules).
Vans may show cosmetic wear (scratches, worn seats, battered cargo area).
Great value if you want function over flash.
Other Tips
Rust geography: Coastal or northern vans often have more underside corrosion due to sea air and salted roads. I truly believe this contributed to the large amount of rust on my previous used Ford Transit - I spent many months on the West Coast of Ireland where waves frequently crash over the road (and into the van).
Timing matters: Van prices rise in spring. Autumn/winter can offer better prices and less buyer competition.
Market trend: As of early 2025, used van demand was up 21% YoY, with prices still high — so be ready to move fast when you find a good one.
Checking Vehicle History – Don’t Skip This Step
Once you’ve found a promising van, step one is to check its background. A vehicle history check can save you from nasty surprises. I view it as absolutely essential before buying a used van.
Here, we’ll talk about using CarVertical as an all-in-one history report tool, alongside free resources like the DVLA’s MOT history. A proper history check will reveal any hidden past: accidents, theft, outstanding finance, mileage rollbacks, number of owners, and more.
Why History Checks Matter
Before you buy, run a full history check — it can save you thousands. Tools like CarVertical will flag:
Accident Damage: Look for Category S/N write-offs or major repairs. Structural damage = long-term headaches.
Stolen Status: Obviously, never buy a stolen van – you could lose both the van and the money once its recovered. Check the VIN matches the V5C logbook. A website like CarVertical will flag this.
Outstanding Finance: If a loan’s still active, the finance company can legally repossess the van — even if you’ve paid.
Odometer Fraud: Roughly 5% of vehicles in Europe are clocked (that number is over 24% in parts of Eastern Europe). Look for inconsistent mileage across MOTs, services, or logbooks. CarVertical highlights these clearly.
Ownership & Usage: Fewer owners is usually better. Multiple owners in short succession could indicate unresolved issues that each owner dumped. Ask seller directly what the van was used for, it will help you determine what kind of life the van had. Also remember: motorway miles = less wear than city miles.
MOT History: The UK MOT database (free at gov.uk) is absolute gold. Look for the following two things specifically:
Advisories; for example, if the last MOT advisory says “rust starting to affect suspension mounting” or “oil leak, monitor”, you know those need attention soon
Suspicious mileage drops; note if a van showed, say, 20,000 miles at one MOT and only 10,000 a year later – an impossibility unless changed to a new odometer
Use MOT history for negotiating too: “I see it failed last year on ball joints and brake discs – were those fixed? Any paperwork?” If a seller hasn’t addressed prior fails/advisories, you likely will have to.
A full report like those from CarVertical can also reveal if the van was a taxi, rental, or import, and may even include factory options and typical faults — essential for spotting red flags before you commit.
Using CarVertical for History Checks
CarVertical is a vehicle history report service that pulls data from insurance databases, law enforcement, MOTs, service records, and even foreign registries — making it especially useful for spotting hidden issues in imported or older vans.
Let's go through exactly what a CarVertical report includes...
Theft
CarVertical scans police databases from 15 countries to check if the vehicle is currently listed as stolen, if it was ever reported stolen in the past, and whether it's been recovered.
Mileage
CarVertical checks if the mileage looks accurate or if it may have been tampered with. For example, see the graph below flagging an odometer rollback.
One feature I really like under the Mileage section is the ability to view historical driving habits. You can see very clearly when/if the vehicle was driven very intensely - this information is gold dust. In our 2023 Roaming Home study, we found that the average work van clocks up 13,940km per year. If a van overshoots this, it's a sign that it has been overworked.
One last thing on mileage before we move on; data from a European Commission report indicates that the expected lifetime mileage for a commercial van is 224,000 km. The average age of retirement for a commercial van is 13 years. Keep these figures in mind when buying a used van.
Financial and legal status
CarVertical checks if the vehicle passed technical inspections and whether it has any unresolved loans or legal ownership issues. Remember: if a loan’s still active, the finance company can legally repossess the van — even if you’ve paid.
This section also tells you if the vehicle passed its most recent MOT.
Damage
CarVertical checks if the vehicle been damaged in the past, and if so, what the value of the damages was. It's a great little feature this, it even shows you where on the vehicle the damages are
Related to the damage section, is the 'photos' section. CarVertical may also include past listing/auction images, revealing condition changes.
Market Value
CarVertical checks how much similar vehicles have sold for recently and calculates an average price for the model and year.
Specs & emissions
They the vehicle's technical specifications and original equipment on record.
They also analyse how much CO₂ the van model typically produces and what taxes or fees may apply.
Timeline
Finally, and most importantly, CarVertical gives you the entire timeline for the vehicle (MOT results, inspections, registrations, etc.). It's pretty cool to have that all in one place.
Here is a sample report you get from CarVertical when you enter your reg / VIN:
Inspecting a Used Van: What to Look For
After you've ran your CarVertical report on a van and it checks out on paper, it's time to see the van in person and verify its condition aligns with the seller’s claims and the history report.
Using a professional to do the inspection for you:
If you are mechanically minded you can do these checks yourself. In my case, I had a mechanic to do it for me. I received a very detailed report back from him. The inspection cost about €120 - it was well worth it. I brought up some of the issues with the dealership, and they got their mechanic to fix some of the problems before I bought the van. A good mechanic will have a device like an OBD-II scanner which plugs into the van’s diagnostic port and can reveal hidden engine codes or pending issues.
Here is the report I recieved back from the mechanic, so you know what to expect:
Used Van Inspection Checklist
This section serves as a van inspection checklist covering exterior, interior, engine, and a test drive. Whether you do it yourself, or get a professional to do it for you, I recommend you read through the checklist to get an idea of what to look out for.
Exterior & Bodywork
Check all body panels for dents, mismatched paint, and uneven gaps — signs of prior crash repairs.
Inspect rust hotspots: wheel arches, door sills, floor underside, chassis rails. Rust near suspension mounts = MOT fail. Professional rust repair can range from £200 for a small patch up to £3,000+ for extensive restoration. I've personally had to spend >£1,000 in welding to fix rust.
Test all doors/windows: ensure smooth operation and working locks; sticky sliding doors = wear.
Look for usage clues: drill holes, roof rack marks, tow bar remnants may signal heavy-duty past use.
Lights and Signals: Have the seller (or your friend) operate all the exterior lights while you walk around.
Look for oil/coolant leaks under engine, gearbox, brakes.
Tyres
Check tyres: minimum legal tread is 1.6mm (UK law); uneven wear = alignment/suspension issues. Worn tyres you’ll need to replace immediately (££). Vans should have reinforced or “C” (commercial) tyres that can handle heavy loads. Ensure all the wheel nuts are present and tight.
Spare Tyre: Check its presence and condition
Under the Bonnet
Engine oil: check level and colour; milky = possible head gasket failure.
Coolant: should be clean (pink/green), not rusty or oily; low = possible leak.
Brake fluid: dark or low fluid = neglect or worn pads.
Belts and hoses: cracked or frayed = needs replacing. Also check hose clamps – any signs of leakage (dried coolant crust near connections)?
Battery: heavy corrosion or >5 years old = potential replacement.
Sniff test: Sometimes you can smell issues. The smell of fuel under the bonnet might indicate a leaking injector or fuel line. A strong smell of antifreeze (sweet) means a coolant leak somewhere.
Interior & Cab
Check seat wear against claimed mileage — courier vans show heavy bolster wear early.
Test electronics: lights, windows, blower, infotainment, 12V sockets.
Turn key to ignition: all warning lights should come on, then go out.
Air conditioning: If it has A/C, see if it works.
Check VIN matches V5C, and V5C owner details match seller.
Test Drive Key Points
Cold start: should fire quickly; white smoke = OK on cold morning, blue = burning oil.
Drive at all speeds: van should pull smoothly; listen for turbo whistle, gearbox clunks, bearing drone.
Drive on a bumpy road: Listen for creaks
Steering test: should track straight, no knocks over bumps.
Braking: should stop straight; spongy pedal or vibration = issues.
Clutch: slipping under load or bite point high = worn clutch.
Engine temp: should rise to midpoint and stay there — no overheating.
Documents & History
Check service history: especially timing belt, clutch, brakes.
Use gov.uk MOT history for free mileage and advisory checks.
Run a CarVertical report for accident history, mileage anomalies, theft/finance flags, and past photos.
Review V5C logbook: check number of owners, recent changes, correct VIN/weight/fuel type.
After your inspection and test drive, you should have a pretty good idea of the van’s condition. If it passed with flying colors, great! If you noted issues, you have to decide: are these minor things I can fix or live with, or are they major/expensive deal-breakers?
In any case, now that the van’s condition is clearer, it’s time to gather any remaining info from the seller and then move to negotiation and purchase if all checks out.
You can download a printable version of The Van Inspection Checklist here:
Questions to Ask the Seller
Asking smart questions during the viewing can reveal a lot—about the van and the seller. Here's a streamlined list of what to ask and why it matters:
“Do you have the V5C logbook and is it in your name?”
No logbook = no sale unless buying from a reputable dealer who will handle it. Check name, reg, and VIN match.
“Is there a spare key?”
Replacing a missing key can cost £50–£200 depending on the van and immobiliser.
“Do you have service history or receipts?”
Gaps over 30–50k miles? Ask if any DIY work was done. Full dealer stamps = bonus.
“What was it used for?”
Delivery van = harsh life (brakes, clutch). Motorway fleet van = easier life, but high miles.
“Why are you selling?”
Gauge their reaction. Evasive or vague answers raise flags.
“Any accidents or major repairs?”
Overspray, new panels, or misaligned parts? Ask directly—listen for honesty.
“Any recent repairs or upgrades?”
New clutch, brakes, or tyres = value. “Nothing” on a 10-year-old van? Hmm. Pay specific attention to the timing belt, it is vital if due. Most vans need it by 5 years or 60–100k miles. No proof = budget £300–£500.
“Are there any known mechanical issues?”
Ask openly. If they deny issues you spotted, that’s telling.
“Is the MOT current?”
If not, ask for a fresh one. Check if advisories were addressed.
“Is it still under warranty?”
Vans under 3 years may still have manufacturer coverage—worth confirming. Check if the dealership has a warranty also.
Paperwork and Legal Bits
So, you’ve found the van, done checks, and you’re satisfied it’s the one. Now, ensure the sale paperwork and legal requirements are handled properly:
V5C Transfer
In the UK, the vehicle’s ownership (registered keeper) must be transferred via the V5C logbook. Traditionally, both parties fill out sections of the V5C – the seller fills in the “new keeper” details (your name/address) and both sign the declaration. The seller sends the main portion to the DVLA, and you get the new keeper’s green slip (V5C/2) on the spot. However, nowadays the seller can also do the transfer online instantly (and should give you an email confirmation). Either way, make sure it’s done. If the seller is a dealer, they will handle it and you should receive the new V5C by post in a couple weeks. If private, ensure you get that green slip (as proof you’re the new keeper in the interim). Double-check the VIN and reg on the paperwork one last time for accuracy before sending.
Bill of Sale/Receipt
It’s good practice to make a simple receipt for the transaction. Include date, vehicle reg/VIN, mileage, sale price, seller and buyer names/addresses, and both sign it. Write “sold as seen and tested, with no outstanding finance” (if private sale). This is your proof of purchase. In a private sale, once you pay and take the van, it’s generally “sold as seen” – meaning you have little recourse if something goes wrong, unless you can prove the seller lied about something. That’s why doing your due diligence is so important.
Insurance
Before driving off, you must insure the van. It’s illegal to be on public roads without at least third-party insurance. You should have gotten a quote beforehand. You might need the van’s reg number, which you’d have from before. Set up at least a basic policy to start on the day of purchase.
Note: converting to a camper may require switching policies later, but for the drive home and initial period, insure it as a van.
Road Tax
Van tax (Vehicle Excise Duty) does not transfer when a vehicle is sold. The seller will automatically get a refund of any full remaining months. You as the new owner must tax it before driving (technically). This can be done online instantly at gov.uk using the V5C/2 new keeper code or the full V5C reference. Do it on your smartphone at the point of sale, or call DVLA’s automated phone line. It’s straightforward – you’ll need to pay the annual rate or set up direct debit. As mentioned, expect ~£345/year for a typical diesel van (up to 3500kg). Driving without tax can lead to fines, and ANPR cameras will flag it, so don’t skip this.
MOT
If the van is MOT expired, you have to either trailer it or drive directly to a pre-booked MOT – but ideally only buy a van you can legally drive away (with MOT).
If the seller has the latest MOT certificate printout, take it, but since it’s all digital, it’s not absolutely needed. Verify the MOT status online anyway. If the MOT is about to expire, perhaps you negotiated that they’d get a fresh MOT – ensure that’s done or booked. If you’re taking it for MOT after purchase (say it was out of MOT and you are handling it), remember you must only drive it to a pre-arranged MOT test if it’s untaxed/MOTless – and have insurance.
Outstanding Finance Clearance
If the history check showed finance and the seller insists they will pay it off with your money, be extremely cautious. It’s best if they clear it before sale. You could arrange to pay the finance company directly for the settlement amount and give the rest to seller. If there’s any finance, a legitimate dealer won’t sell it without clearing (they handle it in background). A private seller trying to sell with finance still on is a dicey situation – ideally avoid it. If you proceed, call the finance company to confirm the amount and that they’ll release interest upon payment.
Warranty
If buying from a dealer, get any warranty terms in writing. Usually used van dealer warranties cover engine/gearbox for a short time. Know the procedure to claim if needed. If from a private sale, there’s no warranty (despite some phrases like “sold as seen” not being legally necessary, it’s basically the case).
Quick summary
For UK: Make sure you leave with the keys, the van, the small new keeper slip of V5C, any service records/receipts, MOT printout if provided, spare key, and a receipt. You should have taxed and insured the van before driving off. The seller should mail off or electronically file the V5C transfer; if online, you’ll get an email confirmation from DVLA that you’ve been added as keeper.
If everything is set, congrats – you legally own the van and can drive it home!
After the Purchase: First Steps with Your Used Van
Congrats – you’ve got your van! Before jumping into the conversion, take a few key steps to ensure it’s solid, safe, and ready for the road.
Do a Full Service (Unless Just Done)
Even if it seems fine, get a baseline service unless the seller just did one with proof. A garage can handle this and will flag other issues too.
Key items include:
Oil and filter
Air, fuel, and cabin filters
Coolant and brake fluid (if old)
Spark or glow plugs
Accessory belts
Timing Belt = Priority:
If the van has a timing belt and you’re unsure of when it was last changed, get it done ASAP (or ask the garage to inspect). It’s critical. Most are due around 60–100k miles or 5 years. If it has a timing chain, no change needed unless you hear a rattle – just keep the oil clean.
Top up or replace key fluids:
Gearbox oil (especially if it’s never been done)
Differential oil (if applicable)
Power steering fluid
Some older vans also need greasing at certain suspension points – your garage will spot this during service.
Fix What You Found During Buying
Take care of anything that came up in your personal inspection, the mechanic's inspection, or the post-purchase service inspection:
Replace worn tyres, dodgy brakes, or old batteries
Sort leaks or electrical gremlins now, before you build over them
Change blown bulbs, fuses, or sticky switches
Closing Thoughts
Buying a used van for conversion is as much about preparation and patience as it is about the transaction itself. We’ve covered how to choose the right van for your needs, what to look for mechanically, the importance of vehicle history checks (with tools like CarVertical reports for checking accidents, mileage, etc.), and how to navigate negotiations and paperwork. By approaching it systematically – with checklists, data, and a critical eye – you greatly increase your chances of ending up with a solid van that serves you well.
Final Tips Before You Buy
Do your homework: If you’ve made it this far, you already are. Keep comparing sources – reliability, known issues, and lifespan all matter. Prioritise well-maintained, sensibly used examples over just low mileage.
Don’t rush: A pushy seller or cheap price isn’t worth the regret later. If something feels off, walk away. The right van is out there.
Budget smartly: A “bargain” van that needs £1k of repairs can be worse value than a well-maintained one at £12k. Always think total cost of ownership – not just purchase price.
Use help if needed: Bring a friend or pay for a mechanical inspection. It’s a small cost for a big peace of mind.
Negotiation isn’t just haggling: Sometimes it’s more valuable to get a fresh MOT or repairs thrown in than a small price cut.
Learn as you go: Every van you view teaches you something. Rust spots, dodgy clutches, or sketchy sellers – you’ll get better at spotting them.
Once you’ve found the right van – clean history, solid condition, good price – trust your prep and enjoy it. It’s a great feeling driving home in a van you know was the right call.
And don’t forget to grab the printable Used Van Buyer’s Checklist below – it covers every key step in one place.
Frequently Asked Questions
What mileage is too high for a used van?
Anything over 200,000 km (124k miles) is considered end-of-life for many work vans, but condition and service history matter more than mileage alone.
What is the best age to buy a used van?
The sweet spot is 2–4 years old with 30,000–60,000 km — cheaper than new but before major wear starts.
How do I check if a van has been clocked?
Compare MOT history, service stamps, and a CarVertical report for mileage inconsistencies.
What are the most common rust areas on vans?
Wheel arches, sills, door bottoms, chassis rails, rear crossmember, and suspension mounts.
Is it better to buy a van privately or from a dealer?
Private = cheaper, but riskier, dealer = more expensive, but offers warranty, consumer protection, and often a fresh MOT.
How can I tell if a van has been in an accident?
Look for mismatched paint, uneven panel gaps, overspray, and check a history report for recorded damage.
What should I budget for repairs on a used van?
Expect £300–£800 early on for servicing, tyres, fluids, and catching up on neglected maintenance.
What is the best van for a camper conversion?
For space: Ducato/Boxer/Relay.
For reliability: Transit Custom.
For premium/long-term use: Mercedes Sprinter.
Should I avoid ex-delivery vans?
Not necessarily. They have high miles but are usually serviced on strict schedules, which can make them good value.
Do I need a mechanic to inspect a used van?
Highly recommended. A £120–£200 inspection can save thousands in hidden issues (rust, leaks, timing belt, clutch, etc.).
Are imported vans worth considering?
Yes, but run a full VIN history check — imports may hide prior damage or mileage issues.
What documents do I need when buying a used van?
You need the V5C, MOT history, service records, receipts, and a bill of sale.
Don't forget to subscribe to The Van Conversion Newsletter for everything you need to get started with your own van conversion (we'll send you a free wiring diagram when you join).
If you're looking for some guidance with your van conversion, you might be interested in our book Roaming Home, or in our online course The Van Conversion Mastery Course. You'll learn directly from our founder Shane how to convert a van into your dream home - no prior experience needed. Shane also offers one-to-one consultations, where he'll help you with any aspect of your build in a face-to-face video call. All consultations come with a free copy of Roaming Home and our Diagram Pack.
Finally, our Van Conversion Ultimate Guide lays out the whole van conversion process in easy-to-follow sections with tools, materials, and step-by-step instructions. It's the perfect companion for your van build.
Until next time.
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