How to Test Your Campervan's Electrical System (British Standards)
- Shane Monks O'Byrne
- Apr 11
- 19 min read
Updated: Apr 13
Wiring up a campervan isn’t finished until it’s tested. Whether you’ve installed a full 230V hookup system or a 12V battery setup, testing ensures your van is safe, compliant, and reliable. In this guide, you’ll get step-by-step instructions to perform essential tests for both AC and DC systems, aligned with UK standards: BS 7671 Section 721 for 230V systems and BS EN 1648-2 for 12V DC. This guide is written specifically for DIY van builders — clear, practical, and to the point.
Testing isn’t just about passing an inspection. It’s about ensuring that your electrics function properly and safely over the long haul — from campsite to remote forest trail.
This guide will ensure that your van passes its electrical inspection first time round, and that you get your EIC (Electrical Installation Certificate).
Shane, the founder of The Van Conversion, is a campervan professional dedicated to helping people transform ordinary vans into homes on wheels. He has authored Roaming Home, and teaches The Van Conversion Course, guiding many people through their van builds. Shane also writes The Van Conversion Newsletter, where he shares practical tips and insights. After completing two van builds and living on the road full-time since 2020, he is passionate about sharing his expertise with others.
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Index
Testers You'll Want
Having the right tools makes a huge difference when testing.
Here's your must-have list:
Multimeter – For continuity, voltage, and resistance (a DIY staple)
Socket Tester – Fast polarity and wiring check for 230V outlets
Clamp Meter (AC & DC capable) – Detect current draw on your DC system and diagnose phantom loads
Battery tester (lead-acid & lithium capable) - For testing battery health
Multifunction Tester (MFT) – For testing cable insulation, loop impedance, RCDs
or, purchase individually: Insulation Resistance Tester, RCD Tester
If you don’t have a multifunction tester (MFT), you can often rent one for a day or two from a tool hire shop. At minimum, you should have a decent multimeter and a socket tester.
Pro Tip: Always test your tools before use. Confirm your multimeter reads ~230V on a known mains socket, and test continuity across a known conductor. A broken test lead or flat battery in your tester is worse than no tester at all — it gives false confidence.
Want to understand the electrical regulations behind the testing?
Before diving into how to test your campervan’s electrical system, it’s helpful to understand why these tests matter — and how different standards apply depending on where you live or travel.
We’ve written an in-depth guide comparing the three major campervan electrical standards:
BS 7671 (UK wiring regulations)
EN 1648-2 (European DC system spec for leisure vehicles)
NEC (the US National Electrical Code)
Whether you're installing solar, shore power, or a full off-grid system, understanding the differences and overlaps between these standards will help you build a safe, reliable, and legal electrical system.
AC System Testing (230V)
Before we hop into the AC testing techniques, a quick note: if your van has both shore power and an inverter, you'll need to test each system separately to ensure they’re both safe and correctly configured. In other words, you need to test both systems.
Testing Both Shore Power and Inverter Inputs
If your van has both a shore power hookup and a 230V inverter, you should repeat the AC testing procedures, described in this article for each input source.
Do the full sequence once while powered by shore hookup and again while powered by your inverter. This ensures both systems are correctly wired and properly protected.
Note: For the Ze (external earth loop impedance) value, you only measure this on shore power. Inverters don’t have a true external supply earth, so Ze is not relevant in that case.
Neutral-earth bonding in inverters
Many RCDs rely on the inverter correctly simulating an earth reference — some inverters do this with built-in neutral–earth bonding relays, while others do not. That’s why it’s critical to verify RCDs still trip correctly under inverter power, especially if your RCD is located upstream of the inverter output.
Some high-quality inverters (like the Victron Multiplus) include a built-in relay that bonds neutral to earth automatically when running. Others — especially cheaper or standalone inverters — do not bond neutral to earth, which means your RCD won’t work unless you install a separate bonding relay (which closes the circuit between Neutral and Earth when the inverter is ON).
Quick test: With the inverter powering the system (no hookup connected), use a multimeter to measure resistance between Neutral and Earth at a socket.
~0Ω? You have a bond — good.
Open loop (OL) or high resistance? No bond — your RCD won’t function properly under inverter power.
Key rule: You should have one N–E bond active at a time —
One for shore power (at the hookup supply),
One for inverter power (via the inverter or bonding relay).
Never both at once.
Always perform your RCD tests under inverter power as well as shore power to confirm your protection works as expected.
With that behind us, let's jump into the five key AC system safety tests outlined by BS 7671 Section 721:
1. Continuity Testing
Note: This is a “dead test” — power must be completely turned off and all appliances disconnected. You're checking for low resistance across all cables (earth, live, and neutral), ensuring they're intact, connected, and not compromised along the way.
Why it matters:
Continuity testing is essential because it verifies the integrity of every conductor. Not just the earth. If any cable is damaged, loose, or poorly crimped, you may get flickering lights, intermittent faults, or worse — heat buildup and potential fires.
For example, during my own testing, an earth bolt had rusted so badly that it created a huge resistance until the connection stopped working entirely. That’s not just a nuisance — that’s a critical safety hazard and could cause a fire.
What you’re testing:
Protective Earth (PE) – Ensures fault current can flow freely back to the RCD/MCB
Line (Live) – Confirms circuit connectivity from distribution board to the device
Neutral – Completes the return path; needs continuity for proper operation
Steps:
Turn off all power and disconnect devices.
On your multimeter or MFT, select continuity mode.
For earth continuity:
Attach one probe to the van’s chassis or your main earth bonding point.
Use the other to test:
Each outlet’s earth pin
Any metal appliance cases
Metal pipework or bonded surfaces
Acceptable reading: <0.5Ω
For line and neutral continuity:
Clip one lead at the MCB/RCBO output or fuseboard terminal.
Clip the other at the device end (switch, socket, appliance connection).
Acceptable result: typically a very low resistance (e.g., 0.1–0.3Ω for short van runs)
Use wire identification or tone probes if unsure which conductor is which.
Using a multimeter: Insert the black probe into the COM port and the red probe into the VΩ port. The multimeter will beep if it detects continuity (a complete path). If the circuit is open—such as when a switch is OFF—there will be no beep.
According to the EIC certificate, you only need to test (The "first socket" is the one furthest from the consumer unit):
First socket earthing & chassis
First socket & gas pipe
However, that's bare bones. It is good practice to continuity test all your cables to ensure there is no resistance. Especially in a campervan where:
Wires are often run behind walls, around corners, and through insulation
Crimps, wagos, and screw terminals are common
Vibration from driving can loosen connections over time
Common problems this catches:
Crushed cables during wall cladding or cabinetry installation
Loose crimps or terminal screws not torqued properly
Breaks in ring final circuits (if used — though not allowed under BS 7671 Section 721)
Wrong gauge wire — long runs in thin cable might look fine but test with higher resistance
Troubleshooting Continuity Failures
If continuity is failing at a particular point, use the steps below to identify and fix the issue:
No reading on one outlet’s earth:
Check that the outlet’s earth wire is correctly terminated — it might be loose, popped out, or clamped on insulation instead of copper.
Verify that the cable between this outlet and the previous one isn’t damaged or disconnected.
To rule out cable failure, disconnect both ends and test the earth conductor alone for continuity end-to-end.
High resistance (e.g., 1–2Ω):
Could indicate a loose terminal or corrosion on an earth bond or screw.
Check all screw terminals are properly tightened.
Inspect the main earth bolt to the chassis — it should be on bare, clean metal (not painted or rusted).
Clean the surface and apply a corrosion inhibitor grease after tightening to ensure a long-term low-resistance connection.
Polarity issues (unexpected continuity between live and neutral):
If you detect continuity between the live output of your distribution board and a neutral terminal (with all switches off), this may indicate a wiring error.
Possible causes include cross-connections, stray copper strands, or mislabelling.
Cross-check your wiring against your diagram and visually inspect the terminals for unintentional bridges.
Bonus tip:
Continuity testing is also how you locate “mystery faults.” If your light turns on and off intermittently, or a device fails to power, trace the cable with a continuity test end to end — you'd be surprised how often it's a dodgy crimp or hidden splice.
Note: Before testing the continuity with a MFT, you should "Null" the tester, as your testing probes will have some resistance in them already and we want to cancel this out - much like we would zero a kitchen weighing scales.
2. Insulation Resistance Test
Note: This is a “dead test” — power must be completely turned off and all appliances disconnected. This test Detects faults in cable insulation that might cause leakage current, short circuits, or fires.
Safety: During this test 500V of power will flow through your system Take adequete precautions. Do not touch anything and wear rubber gloves.
What to look for:
Pinched wires
Screw-damaged insulation
Moisture or condensation between conductors
Steps:
Disconnect all sensitive electronics: chargers, inverters, control panels
Ensure that your RCD is in the OFF position
Use an MFT set to 500V DC insulation test mode
Test between:
Live to Earth (L-E)
Neutral to Earth (N-E)
Live to Neutral (L-N)
Each result should be >1 MΩ, though many new installs measure in the hundreds of MΩ
Important: Turn the RCD to the OFF position before performing insulation resistance tests. This prevents the 500V DC test voltage from travelling upstream toward the shore inlet or connected AC chargers. While turning the RCD off does not fully isolate it internally, it limits the test path to only the fixed wiring on the load side of your system. For best results, keep all wall and appliance switches ON, disconnect any sensitive electronics, and test between Live–Earth, Neutral–Earth, and Live–Neutral.
Tips:
Do these tests with all switches ON so that the tester probes the full circuit
If your system includes surge protection devices or neon indicators, they can skew readings. Isolate them where needed
Troubleshooting Continuity Failures
If your continuity tests return strange or unexpected readings, here’s how to diagnose the problem:
No reading at an outlet’s earth (open circuit):
Check that the earth wire is properly terminated at the outlet.
Ensure it’s not clamped on insulation instead of copper.
Confirm the cable between the previous and current outlet is intact.
To test the cable alone: disconnect both ends and measure resistance between its conductors. Infinite resistance? You’ve got a break.
High resistance (e.g., 1–2Ω):
Look for partially loose terminal screws.
Check the main chassis bond — is it on clean bare metal?
A corroded or painted surface can cause a poor connection.
Clean the bond, tighten securely, and consider using corrosion inhibitor grease for long-term protection.
Unexpected continuity (e.g., between live and neutral):
With all switches off, there should be no continuity between live and neutral.
If you find some, double-check your wiring: a stray strand or misconnection could be bridging them.
Also check that no appliance was accidentally left connected during the test.
3. Socket Polarity Test
Note: This is a "Live test", ie. the system is turned ON.
Why it matters: Ensures Live, Neutral, and Earth are not crossed. A reversed polarity could leave metal casings live when the device is off.
Steps:
Power on the system
Plug a socket tester into each outlet in turn
Check the lights. The tester will display a "correct" pattern or warn of:
Live/Neutral reversal
Missing Earth
No Neutral
Bonus test with a multimeter:
Live to Neutral: should read 230V
Live to Earth: should read 230V
Neutral to Earth: should read near 0V
Any deviation indicates wiring error. Miswiring isn’t always obvious — devices often still work with Live/Neutral reversed, but it leaves appliances and people vulnerable during faults.
Here is a handy table of fault combinations with socket testers:
Plug Pins | Status | LED1 | LED2 | LED3 | Buzzer |
N E L | Correct | GREEN | GREEN | OFF | ON |
N E L | Correct | GREEN | GREEN | OFF | ON |
E N L | E/N Swap | GREEN | GREEN | OFF | ON |
X E L | Missing N | OFF | GREEN | OFF | PULSE |
X L E | Missing N | OFF | GREEN | OFF | PULSE |
X N L | Missing N | OFF | GREEN | OFF | PULSE |
X L N | Missing N | OFF | GREEN | OFF | PULSE |
N X L | Missing Earth | GREEN | OFF | OFF | PULSE |
L X N | Missing Earth | GREEN | OFF | OFF | PULSE |
E X L | Missing Earth | GREEN | OFF | OFF | PULSE |
E L X | Missing Earth | GREEN | OFF | OFF | PULSE |
L E X | L Fault | GREEN | GREEN | RED | PULSE |
N L X | L Fault | GREEN | GREEN | RED | PULSE |
L N X | L Fault | GREEN | GREEN | RED | PULSE |
N L E | LE reverse | OFF | GREEN | RED | PULSE |
E L N | LE reverse | OFF | GREEN | RED | PULSE |
L E N | LE reverse | GREEN | OFF | RED | PULSE |
L N E | LE reverse | GREEN | OFF | RED | PULSE |
RCD test using socket tester: If your tester has a button labeled “T” or “RCD Test”, you can press it. It should trip the van’s RCD just like our RCD test earlier. This is a convenient way to test the RCD regularly (for example, it’s good practice to press the RCD’s built-in button every few months – you can also use the socket tester button if it’s easier to reach a socket). In our thorough test above, we already exercised the RCD, so this is optional now.
4. Earth Loop Impedance Test (Zs and Ze)
Note: This is a "Live test", ie. the system is turned ON.
Why it matters: This test confirms that your circuit can carry fault current back to earth quickly enough to trip a breaker or RCD. If Zs is too high, the protection might not activate.
Before we hop into the Z tests, I want to quickly cover the formula:
Zs = Ze + R1 + R2 (R1 = Live conductor resistance, R2 = Earth conductor resistance)
Ze is the measured earth fault loop impedance at the origin of the installation, typically taken between the incoming live (line) conductor and the main earth terminal, and represents the impedance of the external supply (DNO side) including the service cable and earth path. Or in simple terms: this is the earth loop impedance of the campsite you are on, or workshop you are building in. We only need this, because it helps us calculate our Zs, which is the earth loop impedance INCLUDING our van.
Steps for Zs (at the farthest socket):
Power ON
Set your MFT to "Loop" or "Zs" (use the no-trip setting if protected by an RCD)
Set your MFT to the correct trip time: 0.4s (per BS7671 regulations)
Set the multimeter settings to match your MCB (eg. Type C, 10A)
Plug into a socket (or use test leads at the terminal)
Run the test and record the impedance
Targets:
For a 32A MCB (Type B): Zs < 1.73Ω
For a 16A MCB (Type B): Zs < 2.73Ω
Steps for Ze (at the van’s inlet):
Isolate all downstream circuits
Measure between Live and Earth at the hookup inlet
Expect ~0.3–0.8Ω for a TN supply
Troubleshooting High Loop Impedance
If your Zs reading is too high, check:
Poor earth connection
Check screw terminals in your hookup plug and socket
Make sure the earth pin has solid contact
Inspect the chassis earth bond — it should be tight and on bare metal (not over paint)
Long or thin extension cable
Avoid lightweight or excessively long cables
Use a proper 2.5mm² hookup lead, ideally no more than 25 metres
Longer cables increase resistance and Zs
Site supply issue
Garage or garden outlets may have high Ze
Small generators often have high internal impedance
Measure loop impedance at the source outlet to confirm
If the supply is the issue, note it and rely on RCD protection
Chassis as bonding point
The earth wire in the hookup cable is the main protective conductor
Chassis should be bonded, but it's a backup reference — not the primary return path
Earth rods are sometimes used off-grid but aren’t necessary on-grid
If testing via inverter with no earth reference, loop tests may show open circuit
5. RCD Trip Test (and Ramp Test)
Note: This is a "Live test", ie. the system is turned ON. This is our second set of RCD checks after the Z checks.
Why it matters: Your RCD must trip quickly if there’s a fault. These tests check trip speed and leakage sensitivity.
Steps:
Power ON
Set your MFT to 30mA RCD test mode
Perform each test at both 0° and 180° (your tester should switch this automatically or give you a manual option)
Results:
½ × test: Should NOT trip
1 × test: Trip within 300ms
5 × test: Trip within 40ms
You should then turn your MFT to "Ramp" and perform a ramp test. RCD should trip at a current between 15mA and 30mA. This test should be carried out at both 0° and 180° phase angle
If it fails: Replace the RCD immediately. RCDs degrade over time, especially in mobile environments where vibration is common.
Test | Current | Angle |
1 | ½ times 30mA (15mA) | 0° |
2 | ½ times 30mA (15mA) | 180° |
3 | 1 times 30mA (30mA) | 0° |
4 | 1 times 30mA (30mA) | 180° |
5 | 5 times 30mA (150mA) | 0° |
6 | 5 times 30mA (150mA) | 180° |
Troubleshooting RCD Issues
RCD doesn’t trip at 1× or 5× test:
Stop using the system — this is dangerous
Confirm your test method was correct (e.g. tester injecting current?)
Try a different outlet to rule out local neutral/earth issues
If still no trip, the RCD is likely faulty and must be replaced
Neutral-to-earth faults downstream can mask RCDs — disconnect outgoing circuits and retest at the RCD only
Do not reconnect to mains until resolved
RCD trips when it shouldn’t (e.g. at ½× test or randomly):
Possible background leakage from appliances or wiring
Disconnect all loads and retest
Inverters may cause DC offsets — this can confuse Type AC RCDs
If it still trips at ½× with no loads, the RCD may be overly sensitive and should be replaced
Ramp test trips very early (e.g. 10 mA):
Cumulative leakage may be present
Ensure time between tests for any capacitive charge to bleed off
Most testers auto-discharge after IR tests — but RCD tests don’t charge the circuit
Trip times are borderline (e.g. 250 ms at 1×):
Technically a pass (limit is 300 ms), but keep an eye on it
Ageing RCDs may begin to slow down over time
Some testers give a warning if the trip time is approaching failure
DC System Testing (12V)
While DC won’t shock you the same way AC can, fires caused by poor connections or excessive voltage drop are a real risk. These tests make sure your 12V system runs safely and efficiently.
1. Continuity & Polarity Check
Why it matters: Ensures your wires run where they should and polarity isn’t reversed.
The steps here are the same/similar to our AC side.
Steps:
Power OFF your system
Use continuity mode on your multimeter
From the fusebox to each device: confirm continuity on both positive and negative wires
Also check from each device’s – terminal back to chassis or battery –
Check no continuity between + and – unless a device is connected
Tip: You can use a long test lead to buzz out long circuits across the van.
2. Voltage Check & Drop Test (Live Test)
Why it matters:
Verifies that your DC system is delivering expected voltage under load. Excessive voltage drop means poor performance, heat buildup, or hidden resistance in the wiring.
BS EN 1648-2 recommends a max voltage drop of 0.8V under load.
Tools needed:
Multimeter (e.g. Fluke 117)
Clamp meter (e.g. UNI-T UT210E) — measures DC current without disconnecting wires
Steps:
1. Check base voltage
Power ON
Measure at battery terminals:
12.0–12.8V resting (lead acid)
Up to 14.4V when charging
2. Measure at the load
Turn ON a device (e.g. water pump, fridge)
Measure voltage at device input terminals
Compare with battery reading
If device voltage is > 0.8V lower, you’ve got excessive drop
The first two checks can be carried out with a simple multimeter
3. Use clamp meter to measure current
Clip around one conductor only (positive or negative)
Read the current flowing during operation (e.g. 8A)
Use Ohm’s Law to calculate total circuit resistance:
R = V / I
Example: 0.9V drop ÷ 8A = 0.1125 Ω (anything less than 0.5Ω is acceptable)
A clamp meter is incredibly useful here — no need to disconnect wires or break circuits. You can quickly test any circuit in the van in seconds.
4. Check for polarity issues
Measure voltage between positive cable and van chassis
A negative reading means polarity is reversed
Fixes for high voltage drop:
Use thicker cable (e.g. upgrade to 4mm²)
Shorten overly long cable runs
Clean or replace corroded terminals and connectors
3. Battery Health Test
Why it matters:While multimeters and BMS apps can give you voltage and current, they don’t tell you much about internal resistance, health, or cold cranking performance — which matters for lead-acid systems. For lithium batteries, some testers (like the Topdon TB6000Pro) provide actual State of Health (SOH) percentages. Make sure you don't use a lead-acid tester with lithium battery.
Steps:
Fully charge the battery to 100%.
Disconnect all loads to get a clean test.
Connect tester clamps directly to battery terminals.
Select battery type (e.g., AGM, LiFePO4).
Run test — the tester will return:
State of Health (SOH)
State of Charge (SOC)
Internal resistance
Estimated remaining capacity
Interpretation Tips:
For lead-acid: Internal resistance >10 mΩ usually means ageing or sulfation.
For lithium: Look for SOH >90%. Anything under 80% might need replacing soon.
If a lithium battery fails the test: double-check with BMS before assuming it's toast. Some testers can be inconsistent with lithium.
Shunts & BMS: Many lithium systems already include a smart BMS or a Victron SmartShunt, which also display SoC, voltage, current, and even cumulative capacity estimates. For ongoing monitoring, these tools are excellent.
However, they rely on manual configuration and don’t test internal resistance — so they can miss underlying battery degradation. For a full picture, it’s worth running a standalone tester once in a while.
Fault-Finding & Bonus Tests
Thermal camera sweep:
Run your system under full load
Use a thermal cam to find hot spots
Heat at terminals = resistance = energy loss = danger
Fuse pull test:
Pull one fuse at a time and observe what shuts off
Good for verifying wiring diagrams
To ensure your MCBs are working, you can also manually flick down the switch. This is by no means a full MCB test, but at least it lets you know the basic functionality is working.
Parasitic draw test:
With system "off," use a clamp meter around battery negative
Draw should be <0.1A
Higher? Something's quietly draining power — track it down
Clamp meter current test:
Useful for checking inverter idle draw, fridge consumption, solar input, etc.
A must-have tool for diagnosing erratic behaviour
Troubleshooting and Fault-Finding Techniques
Even good installs can fail tests — and that’s the point: better to find issues now than on the road. Here’s how to track them down quickly:
Continuity test failures
Work backward: check the outlet, then previous junctions
Try the half-split method: test halfway along the circuit
A poorly attached wire is often the culprit
Insulation resistance failures
Very low reading = likely a short (e.g. live to earth wiring error)
Moderately low = possible moisture or nicked cable
Isolate branches to locate the issue; check around holes and sharp edges
If L–E is low but N–E is fine, fault is likely on the live conductor
High loop impedance (Zs)
Double-check with another test or meter
Inspect earth connections: plug, cord, inlet, chassis bond
Poor chassis bond can add resistance
RCD trips immediately
Likely a neutral-to-earth fault
Turn off all MCBs, reset RCD, turn on circuits one at a time
Faulty appliance or crushed cable is common
Unplug everything to rule out earth-leakage devices
RCD won’t reset
Check for reversed neutral/earth at inlet
Also check if you're plugged into a supply that already has an upstream RCD
MCB trips when something turns on
Instant trip = short between live and neutral or earth
Delayed trip = overload (too many devices on the circuit)
12V fuse blows
Same logic as MCBs — look for a short or gross overload
Disconnect loads one by one to isolate the cause
12V device not working / dim
Measure voltage at the device vs. at the battery
Big voltage drop? Check each section for resistance or bad connections
Weird readings or inconsistency
Check meter batteries, lead calibration, and test source
Inverters can confuse testers — try a pure mains supply if needed
Safety Best Practices
Always isolate power when testing with a multimeter or touching wiring
Never perform live AC tests unless you're confident, competent, and equipped
Disconnect sensitive electronics before high-voltage tests
Wear gloves, use insulated tools, and work methodically
Use proper cable crimps and torque settings
Record test results for each circuit — great for future maintenance
Label everything: Label your fuse box, switches, battery monitor shunts, and wire terminations. It will make testing faster next time — and troubleshooting during breakdowns much easier.
Certified Testing & Documentation
All electrical systems in a leisure vehicle should be tested and signed off by a NCC Certified Electrical Installer for Leisure Vehicles. This ensures the installation meets the safety and performance standards of BS 7671 (Section 721) and EN 1648-2.
As part of this process, the installer will carry out all required tests, including:
Continuity
Insulation resistance
Earth loop impedance (Zs)
RCD trip times
Polarity and checks
Interestingly, to get your system signed off and approved, installers will only check the AC side of your system, as this is where the real risks lie. This does not mean you should not check your DC side yourself.
Upon successful completion, you’ll receive a formal Electrical Installation Certificate (EIC) confirming the system is compliant and safe. This is a vital document for insurance, resale, and peace of mind.
You can view a sample of the EIC issued under BS 7671 here: Model Forms (IET)
Wrapping Up
This guide doesn’t just show you how to test — it teaches you why each test matters, how to fix common issues, and how to work safely. Even if you plan to get a pro to issue your EIC, running these tests yourself will save time, money, and give you serious peace of mind.
Testing your van electrics properly is one of the best things you can do to avoid fires, shocks, or breakdowns. So grab your meter, double-check your leads, and get started. Your future self will thank you.
Don't forget to subscribe to The Van Conversion Newsletter for everything you need to get started with your own van conversion (we'll send you a free wiring diagram when you join).
If you're looking for some guidance with your van conversion, you might be interested in our book Roaming Home, or in our online course The Van Conversion Mastery Course. You'll learn directly from our founder Shane how to convert a van into your dream home - no prior experience needed. Shane also offers one-to-one consultations, where he'll help you with any aspect of your build in a face-to-face video call. All consultations come with a free copy of Roaming Home and our Diagram Pack.
Finally, our Van Conversion Ultimate Guide lays out the whole van conversion process in easy-to-follow sections with tools, materials, and step-by-step instructions. It's the perfect companion for your van build.
Until next time.
