Every year as winter approaches, I feel a thrill of excitement. Not just because winter means snow and ski and playtime in the mountains, but because it'll soon be time to fire up my woodburner. An RV wood stove is unmatched for cosiness and a traditional aesthetic. They produce a lot of heat with no more noise than a quiet crackle while filling your little home with soft firelight and a woodsmoke aroma. In this article, we'll go over the pros and cons of campervan woodburners. We'll go over how they work, how to choose one, and how to install one in your van.
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Shane, the founder of The Van Conversion, is a campervan professional dedicated to helping people transform ordinary vans into homes on wheels. He has authored Roaming Home, and teaches The Van Conversion Course, guiding many people through their van builds. Shane also writes The Van Conversion Newsletter, where he shares practical tips and insights. After completing two van builds and living on the road full-time since 2020, he is passionate about sharing his expertise with others.
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Why a Wood Stove for Your RV?
Other ways of heating are more convenient, like diesel or LPG heaters, but there's a purity to a campervan wood stove that can't be replicated.
During my build, I was determined that a campervan wood stove would be central. My vision was of chopping firewood and cosy winter evenings illuminated by firelight. I wasn't disappointed. The ambience is truly magical and every day, I look forward to getting my fire going.
Something I particularly love is that my small RV wood stove is silent. My diesel heater's fan and fuel pump make a constant low-level noise that's impossible to ignore. Once my fire is going, I turn the diesel heater off. The sudden silence is remarkable every time, and contributes significantly to the relaxed evening atmosphere. Noise is also a factor for your neighbours, and diesel heaters are often more audible on the outside. I don't have to think about the noise or smell of a diesel exhaust when my wood stove is burning.
Another major benefit is that an RV wood stove produces a lot of intense, dry heat. This dries out wet clothing better than any other kind of heating. Every evening during winter, the inside of my van is hung with wet ski gear. My stove dries it all out within a couple of hours, and condensation isn't an issue.
Finally, I love the use of wood as a fuel. Firewood is often cheaper than diesel or LPG and you can even forage for it yourself. Chopping, stacking, and drying your own wood ties your daily needs in winter to something natural and hands-on. If you moved into a van to reconnect with a simpler way of life, a campervan wood stove is the perfect addition, offering self-sufficiency and a deeper connection to the rhythms of the seasons.
Drawbacks of the Campervan Wood Stove
The drawbacks of the camper wood stove for van users are largely to do with convenience. An RV wood stove takes up more space than LPG or diesel heaters, and can't be hidden away inside furniture or fixtures. In the same way, firewood is less space-efficient than a multi-use LPG tank or the diesel in your fuel tank. The chimney also takes up space, and requires a hole in your van's roof and the associated sealing kit.
Tending a fire is enjoyable, but less convenient than simply pressing a button for instant heat. The ash pan needs regular emptying and getting a fire to burn through the night is an acquired skill.
Finally, there are the safety aspects. Bringing a fire into your camper must be done under very exacting safety constraints. You have to know what you're doing and be certain that you've done your camper wood stove installation to a high standard. We'd recommend getting your installation certified and possibly supervised by a professional. This kind of certification might also be required by campervan insurance companies.
Overall, these evident drawbacks demonstrate the fact that an RV wood stove prioritises aesthetics and a particular ideal over pure practicality.
Principles of an RV Wood Stove
A woodburning stove burns wood in a metal box, called the combustion chamber. A healthy fire requires proper ventilation, meaning a steady flow of air into the combustion chamber and a steady flow of smoke out through the chimney.
Airflow into the stove is faciliated by the air intake. A good-quality stove has air intakes positioned to allow airflow into the heart of the fire at the bottom of the combustion chamber. These intakes should be finely adjustable, allowing you tight control of your fire's temperature.
The combustion chamber should burn fuel efficiently and cleanly. A good stove will have an insulated combustion chamber. This insulation traps heat and releases it slowly, meaning your stove stays warm for longer. Advanced stoves have a two-stage combustion chamber, where both the wood and flammable gases in the smoke are burnt. This maximises efficiency, ensuring up to 85% of the wood's energy is converted to useful heat.
The flue (or chimney) brings all of this together. Flues facilitate draught, which is the pulling through of air from the inside space into the stove and out of the top of the chimney. The flue needs to keep the smoke as hot as possible, because it's the temperature difference between the hot smoke and the cold outside air that produces a draught. Therefore, a good flue pipe should be insulated, terminating in a weatherproof cowl about 30cm above your van's roof.
A stove with a good draught burns fuel efficiently and cleanly. This means a high heat output, minimal ash and smoke production, and no backdraught of smoke into your van. Efficient burning also minimises creosote buildup. Creosote is a flammable, tar-like substance that's produced by inefficient burning and wet wood. It collects over time in your chimney, blocking airflow and possibly starting dangerous flue fires. Keeping the above principles in mind will help you choose a good stove and operate it safely.
Choosing the Right RV Wood Stove
When choosing a small wood burning stove for RV use, the important factors are size and your desired features. Here, we'll discuss how to choose the right size stove and the features you might want yours to have.
What Size Wood Stove do I Need?
When calculating what size wood stove to install, you're principally calculating for heat output. The capacity for a wood stove to heat a space increases with its size, and you need to choose a stove that will heat your camper without overheating it.
We measure the heat output of stoves in BTU or kW, and the calculation for required heat output for a particular space is as follows:
Required BTU = van internal volume (ft³) x (desired indoor temperature (°F)) - outdoor temperature (°F)) x insulation factor
To convert from BTU to kW, simply divide the heat output in BTU by 3,412.
Internal Volume
The internal volume of your van is the space that you want to heat. If you have a bulkhead or a good insulating curtain separating your living space from the cabin, you only need to heat the living space. Otherwise, you'll be heating both. Consult the table below for the internal volumes of the most popular vans:
Van Model | Configuration | Volume (ft³) | With Cab (ft³) |
|---|---|---|---|
Mercedes Sprinter | SWB, Standard Roof | 275 | 335 |
SWB, High Roof | 345 | 405 | |
MWB, Standard Roof | 370 | 430 | |
MWB, High Roof | 440 | 500 | |
LWB, Standard Roof | 495 | 555 | |
LWB, High Roof | 550 | 610 | |
VW Crafter | SWB, Standard Roof | 265 | 320 |
SWB, High Roof | 330 | 390 | |
MWB, High Roof | 435 | 490 | |
LWB, High Roof | 550 | 610 | |
Ford Transit | SWB, Standard Roof | 240 | 290 |
SWB, High Roof | 320 | 370 | |
MWB, High Roof | 395 | 450 | |
LWB, High Roof | 530 | 585 | |
Fiat Ducato / Peugeot Boxer / Citroën Jumper / Ram ProMaster | SWB, Standard Roof | 280 | 340 |
SWB, High Roof | 370 | 425 | |
MWB, High Roof | 460 | 510 | |
LWB, High Roof | 600 | 655 | |
Renault Master / Opel Movano / Nissan NV400 | SWB, Standard Roof | 280 | 340 |
SWB, High Roof | 370 | 425 | |
MWB, High Roof | 475 | 530 | |
LWB, High Roof | 600 | 655 | |
VW Transporter | SWB, Standard Roof | 205 | 245 |
SWB, High Roof | 265 | 305 | |
LWB, Standard Roof | 235 | 275 | |
LWB, High Roof | 300 | 335 |
Practically speaking, you can remove 15% from your calculated internal volume to account for furniture, appliances, and other things that take up space. If your van isn't in the table, you'll need to measure the internal width, length, and height and multiply them together. Add roughly 50ft³ to include the cab.
Indoor and Outdoor Temperatures
The difference between the outside temperature and your desired indoor temperature determines how much temperature change your stove will have to produce. Most people assume a comfortable inside temperature of 20°C (68°F). Outdoor temperature is the lowest outdoor temperature you're likely to encounter during the winter. It's safe to assume regular winter lows of 5°C (41°F) in southern Europe and the southern US, -5°C (23°F) in central Europe and the central US, -10°C (14°F) in mountain regions, northern Europe, the northern US, and southern Canada, and -15°C (5°F) in northern Canada, Alaska, and the Arctic. If you know where you're going, it might be useful to check average daily low temperatures for particular towns and cities.
Insulation Factor
Insulation factor is an indicator of how well insulated your camper is. Our article on insulation covers this in detail, but you can assume an insulation factor of 1.5 for a moderately insulated camper and a factor of 1 for a well-insulated camper.
Example Calculation
Let's assume we're installing a camper wood stove in a MWB, high roof Ford Transit. Our Transit has a bulkhead and is well-insulated with walls, the floor, and the ceiling insulated and the two windows fitted with window covers at night. We're planning on using this van in the Alps in winter, where temperatures at night can get down to around -10°C (14°F).
Internal volume = 395ft³ - 15% = 336ft³
Temperature difference = 68°F - 14°F = 54°F
Insulation factor = 1
Required BTU = 336 x 54 x 1 = 18,144
Required kW = 18,144 ÷ 3,412 = 5.32
This puts us right in the range of many available models of mini wood stove for camper use.
Space Required for a Wood Stove
A trailer wood stove puts out enough radiative heat to set fire to nearby combustible materials. This means that there are regulations in place for the amount of empty space that must be left around them. Manufacturers will specify these clearances, but this is usually around 30cm around the back and sides, 40cm in front, and 1m above. These required clearances can be reduced by heat shielding, which we'll discuss later. When choosing a campervan wood stove, make sure you account for these clearances as well as the stove itself, plus the chimney that will extend from the top of your stove to the ceiling.
Key Features in a Wood Stove for Campervan Use
Woodburning stoves can range from simple metal boxes to more complex integrated appliances with internal insulation, multiple combustion stages, various ventilation and ash collection systems, and add-ons like water heaters, ovens, cooking surfaces, and integrated heat shields. The most important basic elements are the combustion chamber, ventilation system, and ash pan. Choosing the best RV wood stove will largely depend on these factors.
Combustion Chamber
As I described earlier, an RV wood stove's utility is determined by its ability to burn wood cleanly and efficiently. An insulated combustion chamber, like those found in Salamander Stoves and Cubic Mini Wood Stoves, increases efficiency and holds heat for longer. These stoves also feature secondary or two-stage combustion mechanisms, whereby the smoke coming off the wood is itself burnt. This greatly increases efficiency and reduces emissions, resulting in a smokeless fire. You'll generally pay more for such features, but they're welcome in such a small space where every log counts.
Ventilation System
The ventilation system is essential to an efficient burn and for controlling your stove's heat output. A well-built ventilation system should get enough air into the heart of the fire whilst your stove is heating up. You should then be able to finely control the airflow to avoid burning through wood faster than you need and to allow your stove to burn through the night.
Ash Grate and Pan
Your stove should adequately separate ash from the burning wood, to ensure your fire has a healthy heart that isn't smothered by ash. Cheaper stoves might have a simple wire grate which doesn't do this job properly. Meanwhile, cleaning out your stove's ash pan should be simple and mess-free. A good stove will have an ash pan that collects all the ash from your fire and is easy to remove. You'll be doing this every day, so it's worth choosing a stove which makes the job easy.
Multi-fuel Functionality
Multi-fuel stoves for RV use were previously their own category, but woodburner manufacturers are increasingly adding this functionality. A multi-fuel stove can burn other solid fuels, typically wood pellets and coal, alongside wood. This gives your stove more functionality, and is useful if you travel in regions where one fuel type can't be got reliably. Wood pellets are an attractive alternative to firewood due to their eco-friendly nature as an industrial by-product, their high efficiency, and predictable burn. Look for woodburning stoves that are advertised as multi-fuel compatible, or for which you can buy a pellet basket add-on.
Other Features
Some stove makers, like Salamander Stoves and Cubic, offer add-ons for their products. Water heaters which fit to the side of your stove use excess heat to boil water for cooking and hot drinks, reducing your gas usage. They also offer cooking surfaces and ovens as add-ons or integrated into a larger stove. This completes your stove's traditional functionality, turning it into an all-in-one heating and cooking appliance. Integrated heat shields are also worth a look, saving you from having to install heat shielding separately.
Installation Tips for a Campervan Wood Stove
Let's take a look in more detail at key aspects of installing a wood stove in RV contexts, before moving on to a step-by-step guide.
Heat Shielding and Clearances
As I mentioned earlier, the intense radiative heat put out by even a small RV wood stove is enough to set fire to combustible materials. Combustible materials include wood, paint, insulation, plastic, fabrics, plasterboard, and electrical components. It's very important that your installation complies with manufacturer instructions on clearances and heat shielding.
In general, stove manufacturers will specify the distance that must be left between their stove and combustible materials. For example, Cubic Mini Wood Stoves specify a distance of 356mm from the sides of their Grizzly stove, 406mm from the front, and 1,016mm from the top to any combustible materials. When doing the calculations for clearances in your camper, you need to factor in diagonal distances from the edges and corners.
You can reduce these clearances by installing heat shields. A heat shield is a sheet of non-combustible material that sits between your stove and a combustible surface. The side clearances for the Grizzly stove reduce to just 75mm with heat shielding. Cubic, Salamander Stoves, and other manufacturers sell heat shields intended for use with their stoves, but you can also make your own if you're going for a different aesthetic. Common heat shielding materials are:
Material | Minimum Thickness (mm) | Weight | Benefits | Limitations |
Steel | 1 | Medium | Durable, easy to source | Less aesthetic than copper |
Aluminium | 1.5 | Light | Lightweight | Less aesthetic than copper |
Copper | 1.5 | Medium | Durable, aesthetic | Expensive, needs periodic polishing |
Fireproof board | 12-20 | Light | Easy to cut and install | Less durable |
Ceramic tiles | 6 | Heavy | Durable, aesthetic | More difficult installation, requires heat-resistant grouting |
Heat shields must be separated from the materials they're protecting by an air gap of 25mm, with an air gap of 25mm at the bottom of the sheild. Heat shields needs to extend about 300mm above the top of your stove.
Your flue pipe also needs clearances and shielding, and the appropriate figures will be provided by the manufacturer.
The Flue
As I mentioned earlier, your flue is like the breathing lung of your stove. A good flue continually sucks air through the stove, maintaining strong ventilation and a strong burn. For this reason, the top 60cm or so of your flue should be double-wall insulated flue pipe. This keeps the smoke hot as it comes out of the top of your chimney, ensuring it gets sucked out by the cold outside air. Some people choose to make their entire flue out of insulated piping, which can be installed closer to walls and ensures a strong draught. On the other hand, insulated piping gives off less heat into the room, so some people choose to sacrifice a perfect draught and leave some single-wall piping near the top of the stove.
Due to the shape of your van and clearance requirements, you may need to put bends in your flue pipe. This is done using elbows, but keep these to a minimum and don't use elbows exceeding 45°.
You'll need a weatherproof cowl to protect the top of your chimney from rain and stop the wind from blowing smoke back into your van. When you're not using your stove, a waterproof cap goes on top of the chimney. We would recommend buying your flue piping and accessories from the manufacturer of your stove.
The Flue Exit
At the point where your flue goes through your roof, it'll come into close contact with wood, insulation, paint, and possibly electrics. Therefore, you'll need to incorporate an appropriate clearance here as well. Use the clearance recommended by the manufacturer of your flue pipe to figure out the size of the hole you'll need to cut. For example, Cubic's 150mm insulated piping requires a clearance of 25mm on all sides. You'll therefore need to cut a 200mm hole in your roof.
Your chimney should extend about 300mm above your roof; check with the manufacturer for their recommendation. The best way to seal the hole around the chimney is with a heatproof, flexible silicone boot. On the inside, a piece of metal flashing covers the hole around the chimney, adding the final finishing touch.
Again, we would recommend that you buy your chimney and flashing kits from the stove manufacturer. Cubic and Salamander both sell full flue kits for their stoves, containing everything you'll need to finalise your RV wood stove installation.
The Hearth
Your hearth is the base which your stove is fixed to. This base needs to be both solid and fireproof. Due to a stove's weight, it needs to be very strongly fixed to your van to ensure it doesn't move if you hit a curb or crash. We would highly recommend bolting your stove to the van's chassis. If this isn't possible, it'll need to be bolted to a solid base. Some people bolt a sheet of steel through the floor to their chassis, to which they bolt their stove. Others go for a classic hearth made of brick and tile that's mortared to their van's chassis. Be aware of clearances, ensuring that your fireproof base extends far enough from the bottom corners and edges of your stove.
How to Put a Wood Stove in a Camper: Step-by-step
We'll now go over the whole installation process. Be aware that this guide isn't exhaustive; do your own research for your chosen stove and setup. We'd highly recommend seeking the advice of a professional installer, who could approve your planned installation and certify it once it's finished.
Supplies List
 | Stove |
 | Flue kit including: flue piping, fire cement for bonding lengths of pipe, an adapter for attaching single-wall pipe to double-wall pipe, a ceiling trim plate, a silicone boot, heatproof silicone sealant, and the necessary screws, hose clamps, and other hardware |
 | Rain cowl |
 | Waterproof cap |
 | Stove base |
 | Heat shielding |
 | Drill For driving and drilling |
 | Angle grinder/jigsaw For cutting holes in the van |
 | File For filing burrs on exposed metal |
 | Anti-rust paint For protecting bare metal from rust |
 | Sandpaper For sanding cut wood |
 | Sealant gun For applying sealant |
 | Hardware (hose clamps, roofing screws, long bolts, and self-tapping threaded inserts are all useful) |
Step 1: Choose an installation location. Based on your chosen stove and its required clearances, choose a spot in your van where there's enough space. We'd recommend installing your stove near the floor, to ensure heat rises into the space. Make sure you'll be able to easily open the door, add wood, and clear out the ash pan.
Step 2: Install your base. Whatever you choose for your base, make sure it's securely fixed to your van's chassis, is made from non-combustible material, and incorporates an air gap from the floor.
Step 3: Fix your stove to its base. Use bolts to fix your stove's feet to the base.
Step 4: Install heat shielding. Your heat shielding should be separated from the wall by a 25mm air gap, with a 25mm air gap at the bottom. Heat shields shouldn't be in direct contact with a combustible material. Remember that your heat shielding should extend about 300mm above the top of your stove, and that your flue needs shielding as well if it's close to the wall.
Step 5: Cut your flue exit hole. Assuming you're installing a straight chimney, you can hang a plumb line from your ceiling to the centre of your stove's flue collar. Where the line touches the ceiling marks the the centre of your hole. Mark out a circular hole that's big enough for your chimney pipe and its required clearance. Use a jigsaw or angle grinder to cut through the layers of your ceiling and roof.
Step 6: Clean the hole. Use sandpaper to smooth the rough edges of the hole in your wooden ceiling. Use a metal file to deburr and smooth the edges of the hole in your metal roof. Finally, apply anti-rust metal paint to the edges of the roof hole.
Step 7: Install your flue. Use fire cement to seal gaps between flue pipe segments and at your stove's flue collar. Hose clamps are useful for reinforcing joints here. Bring your chimney through the hole in your roof.
Step 8: Install the roof flashing. Push the silicone boot down over the top of the chimney, using water or grease for lubrication if it's a tight fit. Line the underneath of the boot's outer edge with silicone sealant before pressing the boot down onto your van's roof. Press the edges of the boot around any ridges in your roof to form a tight seal. Use roofing screws to secure the boot to your roof, and line the seal between the boot and your flue pipe with heat-resistant sealant.
Step 9: Install the ceiling flashing. Fix the ceiling flashing, which normally comes in two halves, around your chimney and screw it to the ceiling.
Step 10: Do a test burn. With your stove installed, put your storm cowl on the chimney and light a fire. See how well it burns and make sure a good draught gets going as the stove heats up. Once the fire is established, the smoke coming out of your chimney should be almost invisible.
An RV wood stove generally needs an initial, high-heat burn to cure its paint coating. During this first burn, the paint will smoke as it cures, so keep your windows and doors open. Once the paint stops smoking, the curing is complete. With your first burn a success, your stove is ready to go.
Safety Guidelines for Using a Wood Stove in an RV
While there are no official regulations for woodburning stove installations in road vehicles, adhering to certain guidelines will keep you safe and help you with insurance.
Certification and Professional Installations
Many certified stove installers will offer to consult on your installation or do it themselves. They might also certify it for safety, which will help you insure your van. Due to the complexities and hazards of installing a wood burning stove for a van, we would encourage you to seek professional advice or help. HETAS in the UK and the NFPA in the US certify wood stoves in buildings, and will be able to help you with your campervan installation.
Smoke and Carbon Monoxide Detectors
You should already have a smoke detector in your van, but this becomes even more critical when you introduce an actual fire. Wood fires can also produce deadly carbon monoxide, so buy a combined smoke and carbon monoxide detector. Install it in the middle of your van's ceiling.
Insurance
When dealing with a wood burner in a campervan, insurance companies often see this as an additional hazard and may refuse you a policy altogether. It's imperative that you discuss RV wood stove policies with your insurer before installing one. They'll tell you the conditions you'll need to meet to qualify for a policy, and might specify a particular certification or inspector.
Creosote and Cleaning
The insides of most combustion chambers are self-cleaning with sufficient heat. Besides keeping the ash pan empty, you might need to periodically clean the window. More of a concern is creosote buildup in your chimney. As we mentioned earlier, creosote builds up more quickly with inefficient burning and the use of wet wood. However, it'll build up slowly despite the very best practices. As creosote is a fire hazard, you need to periodically sweep your chimney. A long, flexible chimney brush with stiff bristles is the tool to use. Many stove manufacturers sell chimney sweeping kits for use with their stoves. A thorough sweep at the end of every winter should be enough to keep your flue in good shape.
Frequently Asked Questions About RV Wood Stoves
What types of wood are best for burning in a woodburner?
How much wood will I need?
Do I need a vent?
Final Thoughts
You should now feel equipped to tackle an RV wood stove installation. The main thing to note is that a wood stove isn't right for everyone, but if it is right for you, you'll be very well rewarded. If you're still unsure, take a look at our lengthy breakdowns of diesel and LPG heaters to learn about these alternatives. If you're set on a woodburning stove, check out Cubic Mini Wood Stoves and Salamander Stoves for high-quality stoves designed with campervans in mind.
Don't forget to subscribe to The Van Conversion Newsletter for everything you need to get started with your own van conversion (we'll send you a free wiring diagram when you join).
If you're looking for some guidance with your van conversion, you might be interested in our book Roaming Home, or in our online course The Van Conversion Mastery Course. You'll learn directly from our founder Shane how to convert a van into your dream home - no prior experience needed.
Until next time.