A Complete Guide to Campervan Cladding and Flooring
- Shane Monks O'Byrne
- Jan 10, 2023
- 13 min read
Updated: May 12
Campervan cladding is the single step that takes your van from nothing to something. Cladding a van is definitely an emotionally rewarding process. In this article we will learn everything about campervan cladding: from the roof to the campervan wall panels. We will look at how to clad awkwards places like the side and back doors as well as how to build a campervan floor. We will also look at how to install campervan carpet.
Index
Shane, the founder of The Van Conversion, is a campervan professional and NCC-certified electrical installer. Since 2020, he’s lived on the road full-time, completing several van builds along the way. He’s the author of Roaming Home and the creator of The Van Conversion Course, which have helped thousands build their own vans. Shane also writes The Van Conversion Newsletter, where he shares hands-on tips and practical insights. He’s passionate about empowering others to make their vanlife dreams reality.
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Design the Campervan First
Before hopping into carpentry and campervan furniture making, it is essential that you mock it up on paper or with CAD software first. Our full guide on campervan design will help you get started.
I highly recommend Vanspace3D for designing your campervan interior - it's an awesome drag n' drop CAD tool specifically for van conversions.
Campervan Cladding vs. Plywood
Broadly speaking, there are two options you can use for panelling the walls and roof of your campervan: cladding or plywood.
In our 2023 study, we found that the slight majority of people choose to ply-line their van, rather than cladding it with tongue & groove.
Tongue and Groove Cladding
Cladding a campervan gives a more rustic look than ply lining. It takes longer to install (and costs a little more), but is well worth the effort for the superb finish.
There are many different styles of cladding, including clapboard, dutch lap, beaded lap, shiplap, and the list goes on and on...
For van conversions, most people choose to go with tongue & groove. It is easy to get hold of and easy to install. The cladding just pops together.
Ply Lining
A ply lined panelling typically gives a more modern feel. It is normally quicker and cheaper to install than cladding.
Grade
There are four grades of plywood: A, B, C, and D. In that order, they go from the highest quality to the lowest quality. Lower grades than A will start to have some knots / point of weakness.
'Marine plywood' is considered to be of very high grade - it is cross-laminated (each ply is perpendicular to the last) making it capable of withstanding the elements better.
Number of Ply
Plywood consists of veneers of wood that are glued together. 3-ply is the most common for campervan wall panels.
Veneer
People often opt to use decorative plywood (also known as veneered or furniture plywood) for campervan wall panels. This gives a finish that looks great and provides a lot of resistance to wear and tear. It typically has a glossy texture. It is the standard in professionally built campervans and caravans.
If you choose to use regular plywood over decorative plywood, make sure you finish the wood to protect it! Typically this is done with paint.
A great benefit of ply lining a van (particularly with decorative plywood) is that it acts as moisture barrier - a protective layer to keep your sacred insulation dry! You can read all about insulation and moisture barriers here.
NOTE: Do not use MDF or particle board for ply lining a campervan. They are brittle, heavy, and susceptible to moisture.
Other Types of Campervan Cladding
Tongue and groove cladding or ply lining are the two most common techniques employed in van conversions. However self-builds are all about creativity! With that in mind...
Scrap Wood and Pallet Wood
Some people opt to panel their van using scrap wood or pallet wood. I salute thee. However you must beware with this method!
This type of wood typically has a high moisture content and will warp over time as it dries. This can frequently lead to cracks in the wood appearing, particularly if there is a cross batten restricting movement.
Scrap wood or pallet wood also tends to be very heavy, something not to be overlooked when building a campervan.
The final word of caution is that scrapwood can frequently contain wood worm, the wood-eating larva of many species of beetle.
However, if you manage to avoid the pitfalls above, a scrap wood van can give a very bohemian look.
Slatted
Slatted cladding is pretty rare, but when it is pulled off well, it looks incredible!
Cost Analysis of Campervan Cladding Options
Choosing the right cladding material for your campervan not only impacts the aesthetics and functionality but also affects your budget. Here’s a breakdown of the cost of various cladding materials based on factors like material type, thickness, and installation time.
Cost per Square Meter by Material
Material Type | Cost per m² | Weight (kg per m²) | Durability | Aesthetic | Installation Difficulty |
Tongue & Groove Wood | €10-€20 | 5-7 kg | High | Rustic/Warm | Medium |
Plywood (3-ply) | €5-€12 | 4-6 kg | Medium | Modern/Flat | Easy |
Marine Plywood | €20-€40 | 6-8 kg | Very High (Waterproof) | Clean/Durable | Medium |
Composite Panels | €25-€50 | 3-5 kg | High (Lightweight) | Sleek/Modern | Easy |
Reclaimed Wood | €5-€15 | 7-9 kg | Medium (Can warp/crack) | Rustic/Bohemian | Difficult (Variable sizes) |
Tongue & Groove: Mid-range cost and higher labor but provides a warm, cabin-like look.
Plywood: Economical and fast to install, often the choice for budget builds.
Marine Plywood: A durable, waterproof option, suitable for humid areas like bathrooms or kitchens.
Composite Panels: Lightweight and modern but come at a premium cost.
Reclaimed Wood: Budget-friendly, though installation can be challenging due to variability in quality.
How to Install Campervan Cladding
Screws vs. Cladding Clips
Campervan cladding is typically attached to wooden furring (battens of timber that run down the length of the van).
Cladding can be attached to the furring using two methods: screws or cladding clips.
Screws are the simplest method, you simply screw the tongue and groove to the furring with a self tapping screw.
If you really don't want the screwhead to be visible in your campervan, you could opt to use cladding clips. They are a nifty way to install campervan cladding. However, it should be noted that this method adds double the time to an already lengthy process!
An alternative to using cladding clips, while still hiding the head of the screw could be to countersink the screw and use wood plugs to hide the hole.
What Size Tongue and Groove to Use
8 to 10mm tongue and groove cladding is typically used for van conversions.
How to Save Weight
Weight is typically at the forefront of many a van converter's mind. There are a few things you can do when cladding a van to reduce weight.
Tip 1: Firstly, and somewhat intuitively... Don't use heavy wood to clad! This means pallet wood, hardwood, laminboard, among others.
Tip 2: Go as thick as you need, but no thicker. 8mm tongue and groove or 3-ply plywood will do.
Tip 3: Don't install campervan wall panels where they won't be seen. ie. you could skip cladding behind the kitchen sink or inside storage lockers.
Staggering Joints
When cladding, it is important to stagger the joints in the wood. It provides a stronger campervan wall panel and looks way better!
On the topic of aesthetics, the cladding on the roof, floor, and walls should all run in the same direction - typically this is up the length of the van. This looks a lot better than cladding that is straight in one place and side on in others.
Campervan Carpet
Before hopping into the cladding... If you want your van conversion to look really great, you will want to install campervan carpet first (also known as autocarpet)! This will give a really nice finish to any exposed metal or ugly surfaces that the cladding won't cover. Campervan carpet is a thin, stretchy carpet that is very common in cars.
Campervan carpet is stuck to a surface using spray contact adhesive. After you have stuck the carpet down, you can remove air bubbles by using a squeegee tool. Make sure you use a mask and gloves when apply spray adhesive!
Take your time when cutting the campervan carpet, a patchy job will be very evident when it is finished (from personal experience...). Better to measure well and cut right.
Campervan Wall Panels
Before installing campervan wall panels, you should have already insulated your van.
The cladding for the campervan wall panels is attached to wooden furring that runs vertically up the walls of the van. There will normally be three levels of furring (due to the curvature of the van): lower, middle, and upper.
The furring is screwed into the metal of the van using self-drilling screws or self tapping screws (requires drilling a pilot hole first). I actually prefer the second way (though it takes longer) as the screws are more sturdy once installed. I used 2X1 furring.
You should start cladding from the bottom and work your way up to the roof. Here are a front and side plan of how the cladding should look on your wall:
Note: There are certain places in the campervan cladding where electrical wiring will need to be fed through. The most common appliances you will need to account for are the Solar charge controller & monitor, plug sockets, dimmer switches, thermostat, and leisure batteries. Before installing the cladding, make sure you pre-cut these in the wood.
Note: Installing tongue and groove can be tricky at times - it's finicky business when the cladding just won't slot together! A rubber mallet makes the job a lot easier - just lightly tap the cladding and they will pop together.
Moisture Control and Vapor Barriers in Campervan Cladding
Managing moisture in a campervan is essential to prevent mold, mildew, and rot, especially in tight spaces where condensation easily forms. Installing a vapor barrier between insulation and cladding helps protect against moisture buildup.
Condensation Risks
Condensation occurs when warm, moist air meets cold surfaces like van walls. Daily activities like cooking and breathing can produce 1-3 liters of moisture inside a campervan. Without moisture control, this can lead to wood rot and insulation degradation.
What is a Vapor Barrier?
A vapor barrier is a material that reduces the passage of moisture through walls. The permeability of vapor barriers is measured in perm ratings; the lower the rating, the better the moisture resistance.
Polyethylene sheeting (6 mil) or Reflectix: A common barrier with a 0.06 perm rating, effective at blocking moisture.
Closed-cell spray foam: Serves as both insulation and a vapor barrier, with a perm rating of 0.2 to 1.
Installing a Vapor Barrier
Install 6-mil polyethylene sheeting or reflectix over insulation, overlapping seams by at least 6 inches, and sealing them with moisture-resistant tape.
Ensure the barrier covers the entire surface, especially around doors and windows, to stop moisture entry.
Ventilation
While vapor barriers are crucial, ventilation also helps control condensation. A roof vent like the Maxxair Maxxfan Deluxe can expel up to 500 cubic feet of air per minute (CFM), reducing moisture buildup inside the van.
Campervan Ceiling Cladding
After you have finished cladding the campervan wall panels, next up is the ceiling!
You will find 4-5 metal structural support beams running up the length of your van. The wooden furrings will be bolted to these support beams. Drill into the metal support beams on each side of the metal so that we can slot a bolt through. Drill a hole in the metal of size M6 or M8.
Drill the same sized hole (M6/M8) in the appropriate location on the timber furring and slot a long M6/M8 bolt through the wood and metal. Screw a nut on to secure it in place.
Note: Use a bolt running right through, not a screw.
Next, screw the cladding into the furring which will hold it in place. Make sure to cut holes (with a hole saw) corresponding to where your puck lights will go.
After you have installed the roof cladding, you will notice gaps on either side when the walls and roof meet. You can cover this gap in a really tasteful manner by using stripwood (also known as decorative timber). Strip wood is simply lengths of thin wood that is sometimes shaped ornately (manufacturer has used a fancy router bit)
Campervan Door Panelling
Cladding the back and side doors of a campervan is a little different to the roof, walls, and floor. Instead of attaching the cladding to wooden furring, we instead screw the cladding directly into the metal of the van.
This can be done using self-drilling screws or self tapping screws (requires drilling a pilot hole first). I opted to use self-drilling screws in my van conversion, but in retrospect I would have preferred self-tapping screws as the screws are more sturdy once installed.
Campervan Floor
The majority of the work for installing a campervan floor is actually done in the insulation phase (the floor furring, insulation, and sub-floor). So all that is left for us to do is to install the floorboards!
By a country mile, your best bet for installing a campervan floor is to use laminate flooring. Laminate flooring is commonly used in houses and you can pick it up at most DIY shops. Laminate floor is very easy to install (tongue and groove style), it is heavy duty, scratch proof, and waterproof. In my opinion it is a must.
To install the laminate campervan floor, you just need to squirt some wood glue on the subfloor and then stick down the laminate on top. Put some heavy weights on it overnight to seal the deal.
I chose a darker color wood for my campervan floor and I love it!
Cladding a luton van (box van)
Cladding a Luton van presents unique challenges due to its boxy shape and composite or aluminum panel walls. Unlike traditional campervans, you often can’t (or don’t want to) screw directly into the walls. Fortunately, there are several effective methods for securing cladding without drilling into the van’s exterior.
1. Use Adhesive and/or VHB Tape
This method works well for lightweight cladding materials such as PVC panels or thin plywood and is a great non-invasive way to attach cladding without screws.
Materials:
High-strength construction adhesive (e.g., Sikaflex 221 or CT1)
Double-sided adhesive tape (such as 3M VHB)
Cladding panels
Steps:
Clean the van walls with isopropyl alcohol to remove dust and grease for proper adhesion.
Apply double-sided adhesive tape (eg. 3M VHB) in vertical or horizontal strips to provide an immediate hold.
Apply Sikaflex 221 or CT1 adhesive directly to the van wall between the tape strips (not on the tape) for long-term strength.
Press the cladding firmly against the van wall and use props or clamps to hold it in place for 24 hours while the adhesive cures.
2. Use Battens & Framing
If you plan to insulate behind the cladding, attaching battens is the way to go.
Materials:
Timber battens, Sikaflex 252 (stronger than 221), and cladding panels.
Steps:
Glue vertical battens to the van walls using Sikaflex 252 and let them cure for 24-48 hours.
Screw the cladding panels into the battens instead of the van wall (as shown in previous methodology in this guide).
This method also allows for insulation between battens if needed.
Finishing
After you have finished cladding your van you will need to apply some finish to protect it. This is normally done at the tail end of the build, once all the furniture has been installed. You can learn all about wood finishes and colorants here.
I personally used Danish oil on all tongue and groove in the van. I applied it in 3 layers using a microfiber cloth. Leave 24 hours between each coat. There is a lot of off-gassing when applying finishing oil, so it is important that keep the van well ventilated when using it and wear a mask!
Adding decorative finishes to your campervan cladding not only enhances aesthetics but also protects the wood from wear. With a variety of finishes available, you can achieve a personalized look while improving durability.
1. Wood Stains and Paints
Wood stains enhance the natural grain of the cladding, offering a rustic or modern finish depending on the color. Choose oil-based stains for better penetration and durability.
Paints (preferably low-VOC) can offer a sleek finish and extra moisture protection. Light colors can make the van feel more spacious, while darker shades offer a cozier feel.
2. Finishing Oils
Danish oil or tung oil penetrate deep into the wood, providing protection while maintaining the wood’s natural look. Apply 3 coats, with a 24-hour drying period between each coat.
3. Whitewash or Distressed Finishes
A whitewashed finish gives a bright, airy look while still showcasing the wood grain. This is ideal for small spaces, making the van feel more open.
A distressed finish offers a vintage, weathered aesthetic. Achieve this by sanding down painted cladding or using special distressing tools.
4. Protective Sealants
Apply a polyurethane or polycrylic finish to provide a layer of protection from scratches and moisture. These finishes are available in matte, satin, or glossy options, depending on your preferred look.
Conclusion
This guide should have given you all the information you need to tackle cladding and flooring, the first crucial stage in furnishing your campervan. You may now like to take a look at our guides on overhead cupboards or bulkhead storage.
Before you get started, make sure you check out the excellent VanSpace3D for experimenting with your furniture layout and design.
If you're still confused, consider our carpentry masterclass for an in-depth, step-by-step course on the whole process.
Don't forget to subscribe to The Van Conversion Newsletter for everything you need to get started with your own van conversion. We'll send you a free wiring diagram when you join.
If you're looking for some guidance with your van conversion, you might be interested in our book, Roaming Home, or in our online course, The Van Conversion Mastery Course. You'll learn directly from our founder Shane how to convert a van into your dream home - no prior experience needed. Shane also offers one-to-one consultations, where he'll help you with any aspect of your build in a face-to-face video call. All consultations come with a free copy of Roaming Home and our Diagram Pack.
Finally, our Van Conversion Ultimate Guide lays out the whole van conversion process in easy-to-follow sections with tools, materials, and step-by-step instructions. It's the perfect companion for your van build.
Until next time.
