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Van Electrical Outlets Explained: USB, AC, Shore Power & More
- Shane Monks O'Byrne
- Aug 24
- 23 min read
When building a campervan or RV electrical system, it’s easy to focus on batteries and appliances – but what about the campervan outlets you’ll actually use every day? In this guide, I’ll break down all the different campervan electrical outlets (both interior and exterior) I’ve installed or researched, from high-speed USB-C chargers to shore power hook-ups. I’ll also share personal tips from my own van build, like why I put a USB next to my bed and how a wireless charging pad became my favorite gadget. By the end, you’ll understand which van outlets are best for each purpose, how to wire them safely, and how to maximize efficiency (DC vs AC) in your RV outlets setup. Let’s dive in!
Index
Shane, the founder of The Van Conversion, is a campervan professional and NCC-certified electrical installer. Since 2020, he’s lived on the road full-time, completing several van builds along the way. He’s the author of Roaming Home and the creator of The Van Conversion Course, which have helped thousands build their own vans. Shane also writes The Van Conversion Newsletter, where he shares hands-on tips and practical insights. He’s passionate about empowering others to make their vanlife dreams reality.
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Interior Outlets: Power Inside Your Campervan
Your van’s interior outlets are the ones you’ll use for day-to-day living – charging phones, plugging in laptops, running kitchen gadgets, etc. I’ve grouped the main types below. Each serves a different need, so a well-rounded campervan will have a mix of these.
USB-A and USB-C Outlets (Standard & PD Charging) for Campervans
USB outlets are a must-have in any campervan for charging phones, tablets, cameras, and other gadgets directly from the van’s battery. There are two main flavors:
USB-A outlets
The classic rectangular USB port we all know. Most USB-A sockets output 5 volts DC (the USB standard) at up to about 2.1–2.4 amps per port (roughly 10–12 watts). In a van, these are great for charging older devices, small power banks, LED strips, etc. They’re inexpensive and widely available. You can also get fast charge USB-A ports (PD3.0).
USB-C outlets
The newer USB Type-C port is quickly becoming the universal charging standard. USB-C PD (Power Delivery) outlets can negotiate higher voltages and currents, allowing much faster charging and even powering of laptops. For example, a high-quality USB-C PD charger designed for vehicles can provide up to 36 W on a 12V system, or 60 W on a 24V systems. This means if you have a 24V setup, a USB-C PD outlet could potentially charge certain laptops or larger tablets directly.
In my van (which is 12V), I installed a Scanstrut TILE dual USB-C outlet by the bed and a Tile USB-A and C outlet in the kitchen – it delivers up to 36 W which comfortably fast-charges my phone. On 24V vans (common in trucks or expedition rigs), the same unit would output 60W, giving true laptop charging capability from a tiny socket. These things are super high quality and look fantastic.
One thing I love about USB outlets is their efficiency in a DC system. They run directly off the 12V battery (stepping down to 5V or 9V as needed) with minimal loss, unlike using an inverter (we’ll discuss DC vs AC efficiency more later). For instance, a USB-C charger draws maybe 3–5 amps from your 12V battery to provide ~30–60 W to your device – that’s far more efficient than running a 240V inverter just to plug in a wall charger.
Tip: Mix and match USB types in your build. Add some USB-C and USB-A ports.
Wireless Charging Pads
Wireless charging in a van? Absolutely! This is one of those “nice quality of life” upgrades I wasn’t sure about initially, but now I’m so glad I included it. Wireless charging pads (using the Qi standard) let you charge your phone just by laying it on a surface – no cables needed. In a moving camper, that’s a big convenience (and it reduces wear on charging cords).
I installed a Scanstrut ROKK wireless charging pad in the kitchen area. It’s a 12V/24V Qi charger rated at up to 10 W (mine is the compact single-coil version). Scanstrut actually makes a range of these pads that are fully waterproof and designed for marine/RV uses. Some models are 10 W (single coil) and others are 15 W (triple coil) for a faster charge and a bit more placement flexibility. Since I usually charge overnight, 10 W is fine for me – it tops up my phone easily by morning.
One thing to note: wireless charging is less efficient than wired. It generates more heat and uses more power for the same charge. So I still rely on wired USB-C for quick top-ups. But for bedside, a wireless pad is super convenient – I just plop the phone down and it charges, no fumbling in the dark for a cable. The Scanstrut units work directly on 12V/24V and are IPX6 waterproof, meaning I could even mount one in a wet area or outside (handy if you want a charging spot by your outdoor camp kitchen, for example).
From a personal perspective: the wireless pad has ended up being my favorite gadget I've bought recently. I’d get into bed after a long day hiking, toss my phone onto the pad, and hear that satisfying beep.
12V “Cigarette Lighter” Sockets
The classic 12V cigarette lighter socket (also called a 12V power outlet or accessory socket) is the workhorse of any van. Despite the name, we use it not for lighting cigarettes but for countless 12V accessories: portable fans, dash cams, small inverters, coolers, air compressors, you name it.
Or, if you want to go for the highest quality, Scanstrut also make an elegant and waterproof Flip Pro 12V cigarette outlet.
A standard 12V socket is typically rated around 10-15 amps. Many automotive ones are fused at 15A, which means roughly 180 W max power (12V × 15A = 180W). In practice, I try not to pull the full 15A continuously, to avoid heating. Around 10A (120W) or so is a safe continuous load for things like a fridge or laptop charger. Quality matters here – a cheap socket might not make a tight connection, leading to voltage drop or heating (ever had a plug that felt hot or slipped out? That’s what we want to avoid!).
Why I Chose Not to Install a Cigarette Lighter Socket in my New Van
In my new van Elvis, I chose not to install one of these. However in my previous van Beans, I had several of these and did find them very useful.
In my previous van I used the cigarette socket for two reasons:
Plugging in a cigarette USB charger (but in the new van I installed dedicated USB outlets, making this use-case unnecessary)
Charging my laptop with a cigarette laptop charger. I used this gadget ALL THE TIME. Truly a must have campervan gadget in my opinion. It steps the 12V DC up to 19V DC and is far more efficient than charging up via your inverter. However, in the new van I snipped off the cigarette adapter on the end and hardwired this directly into the fuse box.
Wiring and Fusing a 12V Cigarette Outlet
From the wiring side, remember that 12V outlets carry high current. Use an adequate cable gauge and fuse them properly. Typically, I fuse each 12V socket at 15A (some people go 20A if the socket and wire can handle it, but 15A covers 95% of use cases).
The wiring should be heavy enough for that load – generally 2.5 mm² or 4 mm² cable (about AWG 13–12) is recommended so it doesn’t overheat or drop too much voltage. In fact, one forum noted many stock car circuits use ~2 mm² (14 AWG) for a 15–20A lighter, but ideally 4 mm² (12 AWG) would be used for a 20A circuit. In my build, I ran 2.5 mm² to each outlet because the runs were short; if I had a longer run (say 5+ meters to a rear door), I might bump that up to 4 mm² to keep voltage drop low.
AC Mains Plug Sockets (230V or 120V Outlets)
AC outlets in a campervan allow you to plug in standard household devices – either using shore power at a campsite or via an inverter for off-grid AC. In my UK-based van, I installed a single double 230V socket in the living area. This lets me plug in things like a laptop charger, a blender, or any other household appliance you can think of when I have hookup power or through the inverter. For readers in North America, this would be your typical 120V outlets (and likely you’d use GFCI outlets – more on that shortly).
A few key points about campervan AC outlets...
They require an inverter or hookup
If you’re off-grid, your AC sockets will only be live if you have an inverter turned on. You can read our guide to campervan inverters here. Some folks wire specific outlets to only work on shore power vs only on inverter, whereas others have a transfer switch or auto-switching system. You can read our guide to shore power here.
Use proper breakers and protection
In the UK, campervan mains wiring should mimic a household circuit, just simplified. Typically, we use a double-pole RCD (Residual Current Device) of 30 mA for shock protection, combined with appropriate MCBs (Mini Circuit Breakers) for overload protection. A common setup is a consumer unit with a 30mA RCD main switch and a 16A MCB for the socket circuit (and maybe a 6A MCB if you have a battery charger or small mains appliances) . All AC circuits should be wired with 3-core cable (live, neutral, earth) – I use 2.5 mm² arctic flex cable, which is rated for 16A and stays flexible in cold temperatures.
In North America, you would use a GFCI outlet (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter, same idea as RCD) typically for any outlet near water or in an RV in general for safety. My US friends with RVs often have a GFCI outlet as the first outlet in the chain so it protects downstream outlets too. No matter where you are, don’t skip the earth (ground) connection: the chassis of the van should be bonded to the AC earth to ensure any fault will trip the RCD/GFCI and not shock someone touching the van.
Consider outlet types with USB (maybe not)
You’ve probably seen those home outlets that include USB charging ports. I initially thought, “cool, I can have a 230V outlet that also charges phones.” But in reality, using those in a van is less efficient unless you’re on shore power 24/7. The built-in USB on a mains outlet still runs off the inverter’s AC, meaning you’re going from battery DC -> inverter AC -> outlet’s USB transformer -> DC for your phone. Each step wastes power. It’s actually more efficient to use the 12V DC USB outlets we talked about earlier. I ended up not using any AC/USB combo outlets in my build for this reason. Instead, I have two double 230V sockets and nearby I have a dual USB-C outlet running on DC. When the inverter is off, the 230V socket is dead but the USB still works off battery. That said, if you primarily use campgrounds or have an always-on inverter, a combo outlet could be convenient. Just remember the conversion losses.
Personal Experience
I primarily live off-grid, so my AC outlets see limited use (mostly occasional kitchen appliance via inverter). One thing I have learned over the years is to turn off the inverter when not in use. Early on, I left my inverter on to power a laptop charger and forgot about it – it drained my battery more than the laptop did! Inverters have an idle draw (often 0.5–2 amps from your battery with no load, equating to ~6–24 W wasted). A 1000W inverter might consume around 10–20 W at idle, and a 2000W inverter ~20–40 W, just being on. This is horribly inefficient for small loads like phone chargers. Now I only flip the inverter on when I need AC power. For example, in the morning if I want to run my coffee grinder, I’ll turn on the inverter, run the grinder for 30 seconds, and turn it off again. When I’m on shore power, of course, the inverter stays off and I just use the hookup through my RCD box.
Lastly, if you’re adding AC outlets, think of where: common places are the kitchen (to plug in a coffee maker, toaster, etc.), the seating area or table (for laptops), and perhaps one by the bed (eg. for a CPAP machine).
Multi-Function Switch Panels (with built-in outlets)
To avoid having individual sockets scattered everywhere, many van builders use a combo switch panel that consolidates functions. These panels typically include several rocker switches (to control lights, pumps, etc.) plus a set of outlets like USB ports, a 12V socket, and often a digital voltmeter. These panels are enormously popular among van builders.
The 5-gang switch panel shown above has five illuminated switches that control various circuits (ceiling lights, fridge, water pump, fan, etc.), and it also features a dual USB outlet, a 12V cigar socket, and a battery voltage display – all integrated. This not only looks tidy, but it also comes pre-wired which saves time. Many of these panels are designed for boats, so they’re usually water-resistant (IP65) and fairly robust.
Pros of a combo panel: It centralizes your controls and outlets to one convenient location. When you enter the van, you can hit the lights, check the battery level, and plug in your phone all at the same spot. It also requires only one hole to be cut in your wall paneling, which makes for a clean install. Aesthetically, the uniform switches and integrated look are quite “pro”.
Cons: If one part of it fails, you might have to replace or repair the whole unit. Also, you are constrained by the panel’s specific layout.
Personal tip: The voltmeter on these panels is handy, but they’re not always super accurate. I've seen these read about 0.1–0.2 V lower than actual battery voltage (checked with a multimeter). It’s good for a quick health check (green = good, red = low type display), but for precise measurements (especially with lithium batteries that have a narrow voltage range when full), I would rely on a battery monitor. Still, glancing at the panel and seeing “12.5V” in the morning reassures your that you're in a safe zone.
GFCI-Protected Sockets (for North America)
If your van will have AC outlets in wet areas (like near a sink, washroom, or outside), you should use GFCI outlets (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter) or equivalent protection. In North America, GFCI outlets are standard in kitchens, baths, and for exterior receptacles – and RVs are no exception. These outlets have built-in circuitry that cuts power if a ground fault is detected (like if water causes current to leak, potentially through a person). In Europe, we achieve the same protection at the consumer unit with an RCD, so we don’t have special “RCD outlets” – we just ensure the whole circuit is RCD-protected. In a small camper, typically one RCD main switch covers all outlets, so every socket is protected.
However, if you’re wiring an American RV or a van for the U.S. market, you might install an actual GFCI outlet as the first outlet in line from the breaker. That GFCI will then protect any downstream outlets on that circuit. If you have only one or two outlets, you might just make them both GFCIs for simplicity.
If you’re doing a purely 12V build with no inverter/shore power, you can ignore this section – GFCI/RCD is only for AC mains safety. But I will mention: for 12V “wet” areas like an outdoor shower pump connection, you should still pay attention to waterproofing (use waterproof connectors, covers, etc., since 12V can still short out and cause issues even if it won’t electrocute you like 120V/230V).
Standards Note: As a reminder, Section 721 of BS7671 and NFPA 70 (NEC Article 551) for RVs in the US both mandate these types of protections. Section 721 in the UK requires that all live conductors (line and neutral) are disconnected by the main safety device – hence using double-pole RCDs/MCBs.
Exterior Outlets and Inlets: Power Outside the Van
Adding exterior outlets can greatly enhance your campervan’s functionality at the campsite or on the road. I have a few on my van’s exterior that I absolutely love – they let us power things outside without running cables through a window, and allow us to connect to campground electricity easily. Let’s go through the main types of exterior electrical connections you might consider:
Shore Power Inlet (Mains Hookup)
Your campervan’s shore power inlet is essentially the inverse of an outlet – it’s where external AC mains power comes into your van to charge your batteries or run your AC outlets/appliances. Even though it’s not an “outlet” per se, it’s definitely worth including in this guide because it’s a key part of using power at campsites or at home.
In my conversions, I install a typical 240V 16A caravan inlet on my van (the standard European 3-pin “blue plug” inlet). It’s located towards the back, in a spot I can easily run a hookup cable to. The inlet is IP44 rated – meaning it’s splash-proof. When parked at a campground, I connect a hookup lead from the site’s post to my van’s inlet. This feeds my charger and/or directly powers the outlets via the consumer unit.
In North America, the equivalent would be a 30A RV inlet (commonly a locking plug like NEMA TT-30 for smaller RVs) or in some cases 50A inlet for big rigs. But for a typical camper van, a single 15A or 30A inlet is the norm. They often look like a round marine-style plug or a rectangular shore inlet.
Wiring note: The shore inlet is wired to your AC breaker/RCD box with appropriately sized cable (I use 2.5 mm² 3-core as mentioned). Make sure to ground the inlet to the van chassis as required (usually through the ground bar in your consumer unit). This ensures the whole van is at the same ground potential as the supply, and the RCD/GFCI can trip if a fault occurs.
In Beans, I installed a battery charger (a Victron 30A smart charger) permanently inside, wired to the AC mains. So whenever I plug in the van to shore power, that charger tops up my leisure batteries automatically. Shore power day = device charging party! We’ll charge laptops, camera batteries, run an electric heater or induction cooktop, all without worrying about draining the batteries. In Elvis, I went for the Victron Multiplus (Inverter + charger combo unit).
Don’t forget a hookup cable: You’ll need a cable to connect your van to the outlet. In Europe, that’s typically a 3G2.5 cable with a blue male and female CEE plug (often orange or blue cable). In the US, a heavy-duty RV extension cord (10 AWG or thicker for 30A) is used.
Exterior 12V Outlet (Cigarette Socket)
Just like you have 12V sockets inside, you can mount one on the outside of your van. I installed a Scanstrut Ventura SC-V-DC1 12V outlet on the flank of my van, underneath the awning. It’s a fully waterproof, marine-grade 12V socket with a spring-loaded lid (rated IP68 when closed). This thing is built tough – it’s actually made for overland and marine use, so it doesn’t mind rain, dust, or mud. I wired it into my fuse box with a 15A fuse, same as my interior sockets.
Why have an outside 12V outlet?
I initially put it in thinking I’d use it solely to charge my laptop when working outside under my awning. But I found we use it for lots of other things too:
Plugging in a 12V cool box / fridge that we can set up on a picnic table under the awning.
Running a 12V shower pump for our outdoor shower.
Powering festoon lights or other decorative lighting when we’re lounging outside at night.
I highly recommend choosing a robust connector for exterior DC power - like those from Scanstrut. The cigarette type socket works, but note that many 12V plugs are not waterproof – so if it’s raining, you have to be cautious / avoid. There are alternative connectors like Anderson Powerpole connectors or Merit sockets that some overlanders prefer for higher current and secure connection. In fact, on the same Ventura series as my socket, there are Anderson 50A connectors available for external use, as well as SAE connectors and XT60 connectors for solar or accessory use.
Exterior USB Outlets (Dual USB-C, etc.)
Yes, you can have USB outlets outside too! I have a Dual USB-C outlet (Scanstrut Ventura SC-V-USB-01) mounted just above the aforementioned 12V socket on my van’s exterior utility panel. It offers two USB-C ports for charging devices outside. These are PD-capable ports, meaning they’ll adjust to the device – perfect for phones, GoPros, bluetooth speakers, or even topping up a USB-C laptop while you sit outdoors.
I have two Scanstrut Ventura outlets mounted on my van, allowing me to work from my laptop outside
The model I have is again waterproof (IP68/IP69K with the lid closed) and even when a cable is plugged in, the spring lid provides a bit of cover. The Ventura dual USB has an input of 10-32V DC and can output up to 150W combined (which is huge for USB, likely 75W each if used simultaneously). I rarely draw that much, but it’s good to know it can handle two fast-charge devices easily.
Other Exterior Connections (Solar, TV, etc.)
While the above cover the main “power” outlets, I should mention there are other exterior connections you might consider, depending on your setup:
Solar panel port
If you use portable solar panels (like those from EcoFlow), having an external solar connector is useful... very useful in fact! The Ventura series we touched on offers XT60 connectors externally which allow you to plug in portable solar panels.
TV/Satellite inlet
Not common on simple campervans, but larger motorhomes often have a TV cable inlet (coax connector) or even a satellite dish port on the outside. The Ventura series lists a “SAT Connection”. If you’re a sports fan who wants to hook up campsite cable TV or run a Starlink from outside, you could install a coax inlet.
External AC outlet
We talked about AC outlets inside, but you might want one outside too, for example if you want to plug in things like Christmas lights under your awning, or a laptop. For example, Scanstrut makes a 125V 20A dual AC outlet in the Ventura line – it’s essentially a weatherproof external mains socket.
I definitely would have installed one of these in my new van, however unfortunately Scanstrut only make these for US outlets, not European (at least at the moment).
If you do add an exterior mains outlet, be sure it has proper protection (usually those outdoor units have a flip cover that seals when a cable is inserted, and you might put it on a GFCI circuit).
Summary of my exterior setup
On my van’s exterior “utility wall”, I have:
The 240V shore inlet (to receive power).
A 12V socket outlet (to provide 12V power out).
A dual USB-C outlet (to provide 5-20V USB power out).
Comparing Outlet Types: Power, Efficiency & Best Uses
It’s clear there are many outlet options – so which do you actually need, and how do they stack up? Below is a comparison of outlet types in a campervan context, including typical power ratings, efficiency, and ideal use cases:
Outlet Type | Voltage & Power | Efficiency | Ideal Uses in Campervan | |
 | USB-A Outlet | 5V DC, ~2.1–2.4A (10–12W per port) | High (direct DC-DC conversion) | Phones, small devices, older gadgets. Basic charging needs. |
 | USB-C PD Outlet | 5V–20V DC, up to 60-100W (PD 3.0/3.1) | High (direct DC-DC; slight step-up losses at 20V) | Laptops, tablets, fast-charging phones. Great for modern electronics directly from battery. |
 | Wireless Charger | 5V/9V DC input, outputs 5-15W Qi | Moderate (~70% efficient vs wired) | Phones (overnight charging, convenience). Avoid for large batteries (inefficient for tablets/laptops). |
 | 12V Cigarette Socket | 12V DC, ~10-15A (120-180W max) | High (direct from battery, minimal conversion) | Air pumps, coolers, 12V appliances, DIY connections (universal port). Some voltage drop at high amps over distance. |
 | AC Mains Outlet | 120V or 230V AC, up to inverter or hookup rating (e.g. 1000-3000W inverter or 16A shore) | Low off-grid (inverter ~85-95% efficient; plus device adapter losses). Near 100% on shore power. | Household appliances: chargers, kitchen gadgets, tools, AC-only devices. Best used when on shore power or for short inverter needs. Inefficient for small electronics off-grid. |
 | AC Outlet w/ USB | 120/230V AC + 5V USB (typically 1-2A) | Low off-grid (double conversion), OK on shore | Convenient at hookups, but off-grid wastes power (inverter must run). Use mainly if you’re often on mains power. |
 | 12V Switch Panel (Combo) | 12V DC (various outputs: USB, socket, etc., usually up to 15A each) | High (all direct DC feeds) | Centralized control and power distribution. Powers multiple circuits and provides local USB/12V access. Great for organization and monitoring (voltmeter). |
 | Shore Power Inlet | 120/230V AC input (16A or 30A common) | N/A (inputs power) | Charging batteries, running high-power devices or AC outlets continuously. Essential for on-grid camping or as backup charging method. |
 | External 12V Socket | 12V DC, 10-15A | High (direct DC) | Outdoor gear: compressors, fridges, shower pumps, lights. Plan for weather protection. |
 | External USB Outlet | 5-20V DC, e.g. dual USB-C 60-100W combined | High (direct DC) | Charging phones, speakers, cameras outside. Convenient for outdoor living; ensure waterproof design. |
 | External Standard AC Outlet | 120/230V AC (shore/inverter-fed, typically 16A max) | Low off-grid (inverter losses). Near 100% efficient on shore power. | Powering outdoor appliances, tools, or cooking gear directly outside the van. Great for campsite use, outdoor kitchens, or plugging in external electronics safely. |
(The above are general figures – always check the specific product specs. “Efficiency” here refers to how much energy from your battery actually goes into the device versus wasted as heat in conversion. DC-DC outlets like USB are highly efficient for their purpose. Inverters introduce more loss.)
A quick observation from the table: when off-grid, DC outlets (USB, 12V) are the most efficient way to power small and medium devices. Every time you convert to AC and back, you lose energy. For example, running a laptop off a 12V DC-DC adapter might use ~120W from your battery, whereas running it via a 230V inverter + laptop brick could draw 150W for the same charge. Over hours, that adds up and drains your battery faster.
However, AC outlets have their place – some appliances can’t run on DC or would be too costly to replace with DC versions (microwaves, coffee machines, big power tools, etc.). That’s why most campers include at least one AC outlet. The key is to use AC smartly when on battery: if possible, group your AC usage and turn the inverter off when done to avoid idle losses. And if you’ll be at a campground with mains, then by all means enjoy running those outlets like you do at home (just keep within the hookup’s amp limit, typically 16A in UK/EU, 30A in US campgrounds).
Installation Considerations: Wiring, Fusing, and System Voltage
As a final technical section, let’s touch on a few important installation points that apply to all these outlets:
Cable Sizing & Fuse Sizing
We’ve hinted at this throughout, but to reiterate: use the correct wire gauge and fuse for each outlet circuit. This is vital for safety and performance.
Fuses/Breakers: Every positive feed from your battery to an outlet should have a fuse (or breaker). This protects against short circuits and overloads. Fuse close to the battery or distribution point, not at the outlet. For example, my fuse block has a 10A fuse for each dual USB outlet (since they draw max ~5-6A) and a 15A fuse for each 12V socket. Use the appliance/outlet rating to guide the fuse: fuse slightly above the expected load, but at or below the cable’s current carrying capacity. If a socket is rated 15A, don’t fuse it higher than 15A. If a USB is rated 10A combined, a 10A fuse is appropriate.
Wire gauge: This goes hand in hand with fuse. The wire must handle the fuse’s current and keep voltage drop low. For short runs (a couple feet), you might get away with thinner wire, but in vans we often run wires several meters. I aim for <3% voltage drop on 12V circuits under load where feasable. We have a wire sizing calculator here. We also have a full guide on van wiring here.
If in doubt, go one size thicker. It doesn’t hurt (except maybe your budget a bit and routing flexibility). Thick cables keep resistance down and ensure your devices get the voltage they expect. This is particularly important for 12V sockets because if the voltage sags, certain devices (like compressor fridges or tire pumps) might underperform or shut off.
12V vs 24V vs 48V Systems
Most van conversions run on a 12V battery system (since that’s what vehicles use). However, some larger campers or bus conversions go 24V, and a few cutting-edge builds even use 48V systems (usually stepping down to 12V for standard accessories).
What difference does this make for outlets?
Voltage compatibility
Many modern DC outlets (USB, etc.) are designed for 12V and 24V input. For instance, the Scanstrut USB and wireless chargers we discussed support 10-30V input. This means they’ll work on both 12V and 24V vehicle systems. Always verify – if an accessory says “12V only”, don’t put it in a 24V system or it’ll fry. Incandescent 12V sockets (like a simple cigarette lighter) will physically accept 24V plugs (since the form factor is same), but whatever you plug in must be okay with 24V. A lot of “car chargers” are fine up to 24V (designed for trucks too), but check your gear.
Currents
Higher system voltage = lower current for the same power. This is an advantage of 24V or 48V. You can use thinner wire for the same wattage or get less voltage drop. For example, a 120W device draws 10A at 12V but only 5A at 24V. If you’re planning an expedition truck or off-grid monster with a 48V battery bank, you’ll likely convert down to 12V for most outlets (via DC-DC converters), but some heavy items like inverters or aircon might run directly at 48V.
Outlet Placement Strategy
To wrap up, let’s talk about where to put all these outlets. This is as much an art as a science, balancing convenience, aesthetics, and practical wiring paths. Here are some placement tips from my experience and others’:
Bed area: Have at least a USB outlet (or two) near where you sleep. This is crucial for charging phones overnight, powering reading lights, or even running a USB fan in hot weather.
Kitchen/Counter: Plan for both DC and AC needs here. I put a 12V socket on the end of my kitchen cabinet. Above the counter, I have the AC double socket – so I can plug in my coffee grinder.
Seating/Dinette/Desk: If you work on the road or just use devices at the table, put outlets within reach of the dinette or swivel seat area. I work from my van, so having a USB-C PD and an AC outlet by the table was important for my laptop and monitor.
Garage (rear storage): If you have a “garage” under a bed platform, consider an outlet there too. Some people put a socket in the rear so they can plug in a portable air compressor to fill bike tires (without running a cord all through the interior).
Conclusion: Power Up Your Van Life!
Designing your campervan outlets is an exercise in combining personal convenience with technical know-how. Hopefully this guide shed light on the myriad options – from simple 12V sockets to sophisticated USB-C PD chargers, from interior switch panels to rugged exterior connectors. Each outlet type has its role: USB outlets keep your gadgets juiced efficiently, AC outlets give you the comforts of home when needed, and shore power brings virtually unlimited energy when available. By blending these, you can create a versatile electrical system that adapts to any situation.
In my own van journey, I found that having the right outlet in the right place can make vanlife so much smoother. No more hunting for adapters or running extension cords awkwardly – now everything has a plug nearby, whether I’m making coffee, working on my laptop, or inflating a kayak by the lake.
A few parting tips from experience:
Prioritize efficient DC power for routine daily charging, and use AC power sparingly off-grid.
Don’t underestimate how many USB devices you’ll have – install a few more ports than you think (you’ll end up charging friends’ phones too, believe me).
Safety first: follow the wiring regs (BS7671/EN1648 in UK, NEC in USA). Use the correct fuses, RCD/GFCI protection, and quality components so you can have peace of mind.
If in doubt, go heavier on wiring and components. Vans move and shake; a robust electrical system will last the long haul.
With a well-thought-out array of outlets, your van will be ready to handle anything from charging a toothbrush to powering a laptop workstation or running that blender. It’s incredibly satisfying when everything “just works” on the road. So plan it out, wire it up, and enjoy the freedom of having power wherever you roam. Happy travels and stay charged!
Don't forget to subscribe to The Van Conversion Newsletter for everything you need to get started with your own van conversion (we'll send you a free wiring diagram when you join).
If you're looking for some guidance with your van conversion, you might be interested in our book Roaming Home, or in our online course The Van Conversion Mastery Course. You'll learn directly from our founder Shane how to convert a van into your dream home - no prior experience needed. Shane also offers one-to-one consultations, where he'll help you with any aspect of your build in a face-to-face video call. All consultations come with a free copy of Roaming Home and our Diagram Pack.
Finally, our Van Conversion Ultimate Guide lays out the whole van conversion process in easy-to-follow sections with tools, materials, and step-by-step instructions. It's the perfect companion for your van build.
