The Ultimate Guide to Van Flares [2025]
- Shane Monks O'Byrne
- Jul 22
- 23 min read
Updated: Aug 11
Thinking of sleeping sideways in your van? You’re not alone — flares have exploded in popularity over the last decade, and for good reason. By adding just a few inches of width to your van, they unlock an entirely new world of layout possibilities. They are known by many names: flares, side pods, space pods, longsleepers. Whether you're trying to fit a full-time setup into a mid-size van, or simply want to stretch out in luxury, flares can be a game-changer.
But do you actually need them? Which brands are worth the money? And how hard are they to install? In this no-fluff guide, we’ll cover everything — from dimensions and fitment, to in-depth, step-by-step installation steps, insulation, alternatives, and our hands-on experience using flares. If you're even thinking about sideways sleeping, read this first.
Index
Shane, the founder of The Van Conversion, is a campervan professional and NCC-certified electrical installer. Since 2020, he’s lived on the road full-time, completing several van builds along the way. He’s the author of Roaming Home and the creator of The Van Conversion Course, which have helped thousands build their own vans. Shane also writes The Van Conversion Newsletter, where he shares hands-on tips and practical insights. He’s passionate about empowering others to make their vanlife dreams reality.
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TL;DR - What are the best van flares?
If you're looking for the best flares on the market, go with Flarespace. They offer the widest van compatibility, top-tier build quality, and both regular and extended-depth options. Installation is well-supported with loads of tutorials, and they ship (mostly) worldwide.
Benefits of Campervan Flares (and When Do You Need Them?)
Campervan flares are protruding panels that extend your van’s sidewalls outward to add lateral space. In plain terms, a set of flares lets you sleep sideways (transverse) in the van instead of lengthwise. This frees up floor plan space for other amenities, since a sideways bed uses the van’s width instead of eating up precious length. If you’re building a van for two people or full-time living, those extra inches can make a huge difference in comfort. If you want to know more about campervan beds, we have an in-depth guide which you can read here.
When are flares needed?
If you’re under about 5′9″ (175 cm) and have a wide van, you might manage to sleep sideways without flares. But for taller folks, flares can be a game-changer. As a general rule, anyone around 5′10″ or taller will likely need flares (or another space-extending trick) to sleep straight sideways without curling up.
Different vans have different interior widths; the Renault Master, Ford Transit, and Mercedes Sprinter are all on the narrower side, whereas the Fiat Ducato/Peugeot Boxer/Citroën Relay/Ram Promaster and VW Crafter/MAN are the widest. I've included the exact interior measurements of those vans below.
Van | Interior Width (mm) |
Peugeot Boxer / Citroën Relay / Fiat Ducato / Ram Promaster | 1870 |
VW Crafter / MAN | 1832 |
Iveco Daily | 1800 |
Mercedes Sprinter | 1787 |
Ford Transit | 1784 |
Renault Master | 1765 |
Those extra inches in a wide-body van might allow a 6′0″ person to sleep sideways without flares, if you recess the bed into the wall cavities and use thinner insulation at the bed area. But in narrower vans, or if you’re over ~5′10″, flares become almost essential to achieve a comfortable transverse bed.
Height | Need Flares? | Notes |
< 5'9" | ❌ Optional | Diagonal sleeping or wall recesses will increase comfort further |
5'10"+ | ⚠️ Maybe | Will be VERY snug, likely need cut-outs / diagonal sleeping |
6'0"+ | ✅ Absolutely | Flares essential |
If you want to know all the dimensions of the most popular vans for conversion, we have a guide on just that!
Here's a quick visual aid from Flarespace to show you the immediate benefit of installing flares:
Beyond enabling a sideways bed, flares offer other benefits:
More Interior Space: Most flares add 2″–5″ per side (8″ total). That can turn a “just too small” bed into a truly comfortable one.
Flexible Layouts: With a sideways bed, you don’t need a long platform taking up floor length. This means you can choose a shorter van or use the extra floor space for a larger kitchen, seating area, or bathroom. Your layout options open up significantly.
Integrated Windows: Some flares come with an option for small windows. For example, Flarespace offers flares with built-in sliding bunk windows, giving you ventilation and a view in your sleeping area. Even if not pre-equipped, most flares can be cut to add a camper window later.
In short, flares are worth it if you want a wider sleeping area without upsizing your van. But whether you need them depends on your van’s width and your height – we’ll dig into that next.
Search interest in campervan flares has surged over the past decade.
As shown in the graph below, Google searches for flares have steadily increased since 2015, reflecting the growing popularity of sideways sleeping layouts and space-maximizing builds. What was once a niche mod is now more mainstream — more and more vanlifers are seeking flares to make their tiny homes more comfortable.
Wide vs. Narrow Vans: Do You Need a Flare?
Not all vans require flares for sideways sleeping – it mainly depends on interior width (and a bit on your tolerance for tight spaces). Let’s compare common van widths:
Wide-Body Vans (Ducato/Relay/Boxer): The Fiat Ducato (a.k.a. Peugeot Boxer/Citroën Relay) has an interior width of about 1870 mm (~73.6″) – the widest of the popular vans. That extra space compared to a Sprinter or Transit is a game-changer. Many factory campervans on this platform can fit a transverse bed with no modifications.
Narrow Vans (Mercedes Sprinter, Ford Transit, Renault Master): Sprinters and Transits are around 1780 mm (~70″) wide inside. Renault Masters and similar hover around 1760 mm. In these vans, anyone taller than ~5′8″ will find pure sideways sleeping tight unless you remove insulation in spots. And remember, adding insulation and wall panels can steal 2–4″ from the interior width.
I personally have a L3H3 Citroen Relay (Jumper), affectionately known as "Elvis". This is the widest of the "popular" vans. I am 5"9 (and a bit) and I have still chosen to install a single flare on the non-sliding door side of my van.
In Beans, my old L3H3 Ford Transit, I had initially planned on sleeping sideways, but in
reality this was not possible and my first handful of nights in the van were cramped
diagonal sleeps. I quickly built a nighttime bed extender to sleep lengthways instead (discussed later).
Remember: The more insulation you have in your van, the harder sleeping sideways becomes. In Beans and Elvis I have over 5CM of insulation on both sides + 1CM panelling on boths sides = 12CM total removed from width (though likely a bit more due to air gaps).
One Flare vs. Two Flares: What’s the Difference?
Most people install flares as a pair (both sides of the van), but there are scenarios where a single flare can make sense:
Single Flare Use-Cases: If your van is already fairly wide or you only need a couple extra inches, you might add one flare on one side. For example, the Ram ProMaster (the U.S. Ducato) is wide enough that Flarespace sells a “single flare” for the 136″ wheelbase ProMaster. A single flare can save money (half the cost of a full set...) and keeps one side of your van completely stock-looking. It’s also less cutting and installation work.
Dual Flares (Both Sides): Installing flares on both sides gives you the maximum width gain. This is the common approach if you want a truly widthwise bed. Dual flares let you center the bed and sleep straight across the van. You’ll typically gain around 7-9″ of width overall, which can accommodate sleepers over 6′ tall lying straight. The cost is higher (two flares), and you have to do body mods on both sides, but you get the full benefit.
Also, think about which side to put a single flare on. Usually it’s the driver’s side (opposite the sliding door) because the passenger side has the slider door to deal with (we’ll cover that challenge next).
For Elvis, I had initially bought two flares, but ended up only installing one. I would have preferred the luxury of having two, but honestly I didn’t trust the mechanism that Functional Design’s Longsleeper (the flare manufacturer I went with) uses for the sliding door side.
In summary, two flares give maximum space and symmetry, while one flare is a budget and design compromise that can still solve a specific space issue. If you’re tall but only need another 3–4″, one flare might do the trick. If you need the full width extension, you’ll likely want flares on both sides.
Sliding Door Side Flares: Special Challenges
If your van’s sliding door is on the same side you want to flare, you must ensure the door can still open. The door slides back on the outside of the van, so a big flare could block it. Solutions include:
Shallower Flares
Many manufacturers make the passenger-side flare shallower so the door can slide over it. For example, Flarespace’s flares for Sprinters/Transits are designed not to interfere with the door. Similarly, the SidePodz in the UK only stick out ~2″ so the door clears. You get a bit less interior space on that side, but the door opens fully.
For instance, for the Mercedes Sprinter 144", Flarespace offers two flare depths:
Regular Depth (for sliding door side): 3.25"
Extended Depth (for fixed side): 5.25"
Door Roller Spacers
You can install a small spacer on the sliding door’s roller mechanism to push the door outward slightly when open. Companies like Agile Offroad and Van Compass make these for Sprinters and other vans. If you're in Europe GTV vans (where I purchased my flare) sell a wide roller for Sprinters. By moving the door out 0.5–1″, a standard-depth flare might clear. The door still seals fine when closed (the spacer only affects the door while it’s sliding).
Door Stop Limiter
Another approach is to limit how wide the door opens so it never hits the flare. It can stop the door an inch or two early. This slightly reduces your doorway width, but protects the flare. Functional Design actually recommends a door stop if you install their flare on the door side. It’s a trade-off: you might not get the absolutely full open width, but often it’s hardly noticeable in daily use.
If you Google "fiat ducato sliding door stopper", or similar, you should find some websites that sell something like the image above. Else, you can DIY something yourself - it shouldn't be too hard!
In practice, builders often use a combo of these solutions. For example, use a modest-depth flare plus a small door spacer. The idea is to make the flare project just enough to give you sleeping space, but not enough to snag the door. The good news: plenty of vans (Sprinters, Transits, etc.) have been fitted with flares on the sliding door side and still retained a smooth-opening door. It just takes the right hardware tweaks to make it work.
Other Options for Sleeping Sideways (Without Flares)
What if flares are not in your plan or budget? There are a few alternative tricks to gain sideways sleeping space:
Wall Cutouts / Internal Bump-Outs
One method is to use the space between the van’s inner and outer skins. By creating small recesses (cutouts) in your interior wall panels at the head or foot of the bed, you can gain an extra inch or two on each side. Essentially, you sacrifice some insulation thickness in those spots to carve out shoulder or hip room. This is a common hack in DIY vans. The downside is the lack of insulation acts as a thermal bridge, making that area colder (or hotter) than the rest of the van.
Diagonal Bed Layout
Simply angling your bed (or your body in the bed) can yield more effective length. By sleeping diagonally across the van’s rear, you can gain a few extra inches for sleeping. Even a 10–15° angle might allow a taller person to lie straight. The downside is it consumes more floor space lengthwise and creates some awkward gaps or dead space in the rear corners. Still, if you can’t or won’t cut the van, a slight diagonal is an easy, zero-cost solution that many vanlifers use to make a tight space work.
I did this exact thing in my last van, but it never sat well with me, so I installed a bed extender instead.
Choosing a Wider Van Model
If you haven’t bought your base van yet and sleeping sideways is a top priority, consider starting with a wider model. As noted, the Ducato/Relay/Boxer family is the widest and can often accommodate sideways sleep for people up to ~5′9" without mods. The VW Crafter and Iveco Daily are also wider than Sprinters. In North America, the Ram ProMaster is the widest option. Choosing a wide van might eliminate the need for flares altogether. (For instance, lots of European campervans on the Ducato base, with little insulation have transverse beds and no flares, because the width is already there.)
In the end, flares are the most straightforward way to gain bed space, but these alternatives can work if flares aren’t feasible. You can also combine strategies: e.g. a small flare on one side plus a 2″ insulation cutout on the other, or a diagonal bed plus a couple inches from wall indentations. Van building is all about creative problem solving, so use what fits your situation.
Popular Campervan Flare Manufacturers (USA, UK & Europe)
If you decide to go the flare route, the next question is: whose flares do you buy? Below is a comparison of some well-known flare manufacturers and their offerings:
Manufacturer (Region) | Supported Vans | Approx Price (Pair) | Depth added (with pair) |
Flarespace (USA) | Mercedes Sprinter (144/170); Transit (148/130/Econoline); ProMaster; Dodge Sprinter; VW Crafter; Fiat Ducato | ~$1,800 USD | |
VanSpeed (USA) | Sprinter (144/170); | ~$1,800 USD | |
SidePodz (UK) | Sprinter; VW Crafter (pre 2017) | £950 | |
EVO Design (UK) | Sprinter; Crafter; Transit; | £1,140-£1,305 | |
Functional Design (Germany/EU) | Ducato/Boxer/Jumper; Sprinter; Transit; Crafter; Master | ~€1,600 | |
DARC Expedition (Germany/EU) | Sprinter (2006+); Crafter (–2016); Iveco Daily | ~€1,800 |
Notes: Pricing is approximate and can vary with options (e.g. windows add cost) and currency changes. Also factor in shipping (these are big items) and any import duties if ordering overseas. Some companies have distributors in various regions (for instance, Flarespace products are distributed in the UK by APE Adventure Vans).
All of the above flares are made from molded fiberglass – which is the norm for quality flares. A few DIYers have attempted ABS plastic or metal, but fiberglass dominates due to its strength and ease of forming complex curves. High-end makers use marine-grade resin and sturdy layups that resist cracking.
Who's the Best Van Flare Manufacturer?
Despite owning a pair of Functional Design Longsleepers myself, it is very clear that Flarespace are the go-to flare if you have the cash (and no, this isn't a sponsored post).
They pioneered the van flare concept and continue to lead the pack in quality, fit, and reliability. Crucially, they support the widest range of van models — from Sprinters and Transits to ProMasters and older Dodge vans — with both regular and extended-depth options.
Their flares are compatible with popular windows like CRL and Arctic Tern, and they offer clean, consistent moulding with a factory-style look. Installation is also well-supported, with plenty of tutorials online and clear documentation. Add in (mostly) worldwide shipping, and Flarespace is hard to beat — especially if you’re after peace of mind and broad compatibility.
How much depth do flares give?
This depends on two things:
The manufacturer of the flare (some manufacturers make deeper flares than others)
The type of van (The sliding door of different van models really does determine a lot, if the sliding door is tight against the van, the flare for that side will also be tight)
Flarespace flares:
An individual Flarespace flare depth ranges from 2.25" (Ram Promaster) all the way up to 5.25" (Merc Sprinter 144). Their full list of specific dimensions are shown below.
Other flare manufacturers:
Here are the flare widths of the other big flare manufacturers (accurate to the best of my ability as of July 2025):
Manufacturer | Driver Side Depth | Passenger Side Depth | Total Width Gain | Notes |
SidePodz | 2″ | 2″ | 4″ | Low-profile; sliding door compatible |
VanSpeed Capsules | 6.5″ | 5″ | 11.5″ | Deepest gain; ideal for tall sleepers |
EVO Design | 4.7″ | 1.5″ | 6.2″ | Asymmetrical; blends width and door clearance |
Functional Design | 4″ | 4″ | 8″ | Balanced design, TÜV-approved in EU |
DARC Expedition | — | — | 6.5″ (total) | Exact per-side depth not listed; asymmetrical |
When comparing flares, consider:
Depth Gain: How much width does it add per side?
Shape & Finish: Rounded vs. squared shapes (impacts interior finishing ease). Do they offer interior trim rings or finishing kits? Curvier flares (e.g. Flarespace) sometimes need special trim for a clean interior finish.
Window Compatibility: If you want windows, see what’s supported. Flarespace, for instance, sells matching bunk windows. Others you’ll cut yourself – ensure the flare has a flat area or gentle curve that suits your chosen window model.
Installation Method: Most use adhesive plus either rivets or bolts. Some (like DARC) are glue-in with no exterior fasteners. Functional Design uses an internal flange with bolts. Check if templates and hardware are included.
Lead Time: These are often made in small batches. It’s not unusual to have a lead time of several weeks, so plan ahead. Also consider if the manufacturer or reseller offers support or instructions – having a good template or video guide is a big help.
All of these companies have been used by van converters with good results. I personally went with Functional Design for my build (being in Europe and having a Ducato base). In the US, Flarespace and VanSpeed are kind of the Coke and Pepsi of flares – both solid choices with slightly different styling. In the UK/EU, it’s great to see local options like SidePodz and EVO’s Space Pods so you don’t have to import from abroad.
Material Matters: Fiberglass and Alternatives
Flares are almost always made of fiberglass (glass reinforced plastic). High-end flares use hand-laid fiberglass or molded fiberglass composite, resulting in a durable part that can flex slightly with the van’s body. Fiberglass doesn’t rust, and it holds paint well (your flares will get painted to match your van). Marine-grade fiberglass resins are often used for UV and weather resistance.
What about other materials? There are a few:
ABS Plastic: Some lower-cost or homemade flares might use thermoformed ABS plastic. ABS is lightweight and cheaper in mass production, but it’s generally less sturdy and can warp in extreme heat or crack in extreme cold. None of the major brands above use plain plastic – fiberglass is preferred for longevity.
Carbon Fiber: As noted, a couple of makers (like Rhino Van in the US) offer carbon fiber flares. They are very expensive but save a few pounds and have a slick carbon weave look (if left unpainted). For most builders, carbon isn’t necessary – fiberglass is plenty strong – but it’s an option if budget is no issue.
Sheet Metal: In theory, one could fabricate metal “flare” extensions and weld them in. This is essentially what some campervan converters did at the factory (coach-built flares). It’s not a DIY-friendly route and would require professional bodywork and rust prevention. The result might be seamless, but given the availability of fiberglass kits, few people go this route.
In short, fiberglass rules when it comes to flares. The pros are strength, durability, and ease of installation, with the only cons being that you do need to insulate them (fiberglass itself has little insulation) and they need painting (most come in a primer/gelcoat). But once painted and installed, fiberglass flares should last the life of your van.
(One more note: because fiberglass isn’t a great heat conductor, flares aren’t as bad a thermal bridge as the metal would be – but they will still get cold on the inside if not insulated. Let’s talk about insulating them next.)
Insulating Your Flares
To prevent thermal issues and condensation, you should insulate the inside of your flares just like you insulate the rest of the van walls. We have an extensive guide to van insulation which you can read here.
Here’s how you can insulate your flares:
Stick-on Foam Insulation: A popular choice is Armaflex or similar closed-cell foam. It comes in self-adhesive sheets. You can cut pieces to fit the shape of the flare’s interior and press them on. Closed-cell foam won’t absorb moisture and also adds a bit of sound deadening. In my flares, I applied 40 mm Armaflex to most of the surface. It molded well to the gentle curve and stayed put without additional glue.
Thinsulate: Another approach is using 3M Thinsulate (a popular campervan insulation material in North America) or other semi-flexible insulation like wool or recycled denim. You can spray adhesive on the inside of the flare and press a layer of Thinsulate into it. Thinsulate is great for irregular shapes because it’s pliable and won’t hold moisture.
Spray Foam (Caution): Some folks have tried minimally expanding spray foam inside flares. While it will insulate, be very careful – expanding foam can exert pressure and potentially warp the fiberglass if overdone. If you go this route, use a low-expansion foam and apply in small increments. Generally, the above two methods are sufficient for insulation.
Don’t forget about the metal frame around the flare opening – insulate or cover any exposed metal there too, so you don’t create a thermal bridge around your new flare. A bit of foam or leftover Thinsulate stuffed around the edges will help ensure there’s no gap for cold to sneak in.
After insulating, you’ll likely close up the flare’s interior with a trim panel or fabric (see next section), which will further trap the insulation in place and give a finished look. The result should be a flare that is nearly as well-insulated as the rest of your van wall – no cold drafts or drips.
Installing Windows in Flares
Having a window in your flare is a great way to add ventilation and light to your sleeping area.
If your flares didn’t come with windows, you can install your own (most flare kits come either blank or with an optional window cutout). Here are some tips:
Choose the Right Window: Many flares use small horizontal “bunk” windows. Flarespace, for example, offers 10″ x 33″ half-slider or awning windows that fit their flares. You can also use universal camper van windows (the CR Laurence 10″ x 30″ sliders are popular) or acrylic RV windows. Make sure the window’s trim can fit the flare’s wall thickness (if the flare + interior panel is thicker than a van sheet metal, sometimes longer clamp rings or screws are needed).
Cutting the Fiberglass: Cutting a window hole in a fiberglass flare is similar to cutting one in metal, but easier on the saw. Mark your cutout carefully (use masking tape and a marker to draw the outline). Drill a pilot hole, then use a jigsaw with a fine-tooth blade to cut out the opening. Wear a dust mask and eye protection – fiberglass dust is itchy stuff. Go slow to avoid chipping the gelcoat. Once cut, sand the edges smooth and perhaps coat the raw edge with a bit of epoxy or paint to seal the fibers.
Mounting the Window: Typically, campervan windows are either bonded or clamp fit. We have a full guide to campervan windows, which you can read here. With clamp fit, you’ll insert the window and then secure it from the inside. Use a sealant (butyl tape or polyurethane sealant) between the window frame and the flare. Tighten the clamps or screws gradually and evenly to get a good seal without distorting the frame (fiberglass has some flex, so don’t over-tighten). Finally, you can run a thin bead of sealant around the exterior of the window for extra waterproofing.
If you’re not comfortable cutting the flares, you could have a van conversion shop do the window install, but honestly it’s a straightforward DIY job if you measure twice and use the right tools. Having windows in the flares can really elevate your van’s livability – it gives you a cross-breeze on warm nights and makes the space feel less claustrophobic.
(One more tip: some flare manufacturers mold a flat spot or even a recessed outline for where a window can go. Check if your flares have this – it can guide your cut and ensure the window sits flush.)
Finishing the Interior of the Flares
The last piece of the puzzle is making the inside of your flares look good. Out of the box, you’ll see raw fiberglass or primer on the inside of the flare, which isn’t exactly cozy. There are a few ways to finish the flare interior so it blends with your van’s interior:
Upholster with Fabric/Carpet:
Many DIY van builders cover the flare area with the same material as their walls or headliner. You can wrap the interior of the flare with automotive carpet (stretchy hull liner) or suede headliner fabric. Use a high-strength spray adhesive to glue fabric to the fiberglass (and any insulation you added). This approach gives a soft, cozy feel and can match the rest of your decor. It can be a bit tricky to get the fabric smooth on curved surfaces, but materials like hull liner are very forgiving and stretchable.
Build a Trim Panel:
If you prefer a cleaner, more “built-in” look, you can create a thin wood or plastic panel that covers the flare opening. For example, cut a piece of 1/8″ plywood to the shape of the flare’s inner opening. You can upholster that panel or paint it, then screw it to the flare’s inner lip or to the van’s wall framing around the flare. Some companies (like Flarespace) offer trim ring kits – precut plastic liners that finish the flare interior neatly. These can simply snap in or be secured with a few screws, saving you the trouble of making something from scratch.
Paint or Coat:
Another option is to simply paint the interior of the flare. You could sand it smooth and apply a coat of paint that matches your interior color. Or even use a textured coating (like a truck bed liner spray) for a rugged look. This won’t have the padded feel of fabric, but it’s easy to wipe clean and can look like a factory molded piece if done well.
Don’t forget the finishing touches: use U-channel edge trim on any exposed cut metal edges of the van around the flare. This gives a clean look and protects you from sharp metal. Also, if you installed windows in the flares, finish off the inside around the window with either the window’s clamp ring or a nice bezel so it all looks polished.
With the interior trim done, your flares not only function great, they also feel integrated into your camper. No one wants to see raw fiberglass or jagged metal when they’re lying in bed – and with a bit of finishing work, you won’t.
How to Install a Flare: Step-by-Step Guide
Here’s a run-through of how a typical flare installation goes. (Always follow the specific instructions for your kit, but this was my experience installing a Functional Design Longsleeper flare on a Citroën Jumper, which is identical to the Ram ProMaster in size.)
Here are the tools needed for the job:
Jigsaw
Angle grinder (for cutting support strut of van)
Metal file
Masking tape + scissors
Sharpie
Clamps
Drill
Metal paint + brush
Sikaflex 522 adhesive sealant
M8 Bolts, washers, & nuts
Step 1: Cut the support strut
In some vans (such as my Citroen Jumper), there is a support strut right where you need to install the flare. You will first need to remove this strut (don't worry, it's there predominantly for vibration dampening rather than structural support).
I used an angle grinder (very carefully) to detach the top and bottom of the support strut.
I then used a chisel and a rubber mallet to remove the excess glue that was left over (not strictly necessary seeing as we will be cutting the entire panel out...)
Step 2: Cut out the template
A cutting template is usually provided by the flare manufacturer. Cut it out, if needed. Some manufacturers man not provide this, but instead provide cutting measurements. In this case you can make your own template, or just mark directly on the van.
3. Mark the Cutout:
Go out to your van with the template and tape it to the INSIDE first. Line it up perfectly with where you want the flare to go.
Then drill a few holes through the template and through your van. These will be your guides for when you stick the template to the outside.
Then remove the template from the inside and stick it to the outside - matching it up perfectly with the drill holes. Trace the outline with a sharpie. Double-check measurements – once you cut, there’s no going back.
4. Cut the Van Panel:
Stick masking tape along the cut lines to protect paint. Drill a starter hole inside one corner of the outline (big enough for your jigsaw blade). Using a jigsaw with a metal-cutting blade (and on a low speed), carefully cut out the panel along the line. The van sheet metal will start to vibrate quick aggressively as you cut more, so have a friend support the piece as you finish the cut.
Wear eye protection and gloves – cutting metal throws off sharp chips (put a drop cloth inside to catch shavings). Remove the cut-out panel.
5. Clean and Protect Edges:
File the cut metal edges to remove sharp burrs.
Then paint the raw metal with primer or a rust-inhibiting spray (like cold galvanizing zinc spray). Let it dry. This step prevents any rust from developing on your newly exposed metal.
6. Drill Mounting Holes (if needed):
If your flare attaches with bolts, dry fit the flare up in the hole and mark where the fasteners will go. Many kits have the flange pre-drilled with holes, such as the Longsleepers I installed. Drill out those marked spots in the van sheet metal to the appropriate size. After drilling, touch up those new holes with a dab of paint or primer to prevent rust.
7. Dry Fit the Flare:
Test fit the flare in the opening to ensure it sits properly. Check that the trim flange lies flush and that any bolt holes line up. Also verify the sliding door clears the flare if applicable. It’s easier to adjust now before adhesive is involved.
8. Apply Adhesive Sealant:
Clean the bonding surfaces (use rubbing alcohol to wipe the van metal and the flare flange). Then apply a generous bead of Sikaflex 522 or the recommended adhesive/sealant around the flare’s flange and along the cut edge of the van. I ran a continuous (and fat) bead around the entire perimeter of the opening. This creates a strong, waterproof bond.
9. Install the Flare:
Carefully place the flare into the cutout (having a helper here is great). If using bolts, insert them through the flange holes and the van’s sheet metal, then add washers and nuts from the inside. Tighten gently and evenly. Do not overtighten – snug is enough, as the adhesive will do a lot of the work. If using rivets, pop them in with a rivet gun. As you tighten or rivet, you should see some sealant squeezing out – that’s good (ensures full coverage). Wipe excess sealant before it cures.
10. Clamp and Cure:
If possible, clamp the flare in place (you can use ratchet straps or even tape) to hold it tight while the adhesive cures. Follow the cure time from the sealant manufacturer – usually about 24 hours to be safe. During this time, avoid driving or stressing the area. Once cured, remove any clamps.
11. Finish Sealing:
Inspect the exterior seam. I like to run a final bead of sealant around the outside of the flare where it meets the van body. Smooth it out for a neat finish. This ensures absolutely no water can get in between the flare and van body.
12. Paint and Trim: If your flares are not yet painted to match the van, mask off around them and paint them (or have a body shop do it for a perfect match). Many people paint the flares prior to installation, but if you didn’t, you can carefully do it afterwards. Once painted, add any finishing trim on the inside (insulation, fabric panel, etc. as discussed above). Also, install any windows at this stage if you had pre-cut holes or are adding them now.
Step back and admire your work – your van now has some stylish “hips” and, more importantly, a lot more room to stretch out at night!
Final Thoughts
Installing flares is definitely one of the more advanced DIY van mods due to the big hole cutting, but with careful planning it’s very achievable. The space and comfort gained are well worth it. As a final tip: measure everything twice (even three times), work slowly, and don’t skimp on the sealant. Following those guidelines, my install came out great – and nothing beats lying in bed sideways without touching the walls.
Again, if you're going for flares, I'd definately recommend you give Flarespace a look in.
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If you're looking for some guidance with your van conversion, you might be interested in our book Roaming Home, or in our online course The Van Conversion Mastery Course. You'll learn directly from our founder Shane how to convert a van into your dream home - no prior experience needed. Shane also offers one-to-one consultations, where he'll help you with any aspect of your build in a face-to-face video call. All consultations come with a free copy of Roaming Home and our Diagram Pack.
Finally, our Van Conversion Ultimate Guide lays out the whole van conversion process in easy-to-follow sections with tools, materials, and step-by-step instructions. It's the perfect companion for your van build.